Glencoe Forum Meet

The weather forecast for the weekend in Glencoe wasn't great, with heavy rain forecast and some stiff winds coming in for Friday and again Sunday. But the hope was for a fairly dry and settled day for early Saturday, with a small window of clearer weather, but deteriorating later in the day.

I left home just after the rush hour had passed on the M60 on a very wet Friday morning for the 312 mile drive to Glencoe.

It was a hard drive north with driving winds and heavy rain as forecast for most of the journey, only easing as I reached the southern Highlands.

My second and last stop of the drive was at Loch Lomond

Almost there, the wonderful Glencoe

A minutes drive from the hostel

Seven hours later I arrived at a quiet hostel around 4.30pm, to be met by yorksgal, Summit and snakehips, who'd already settled into the place.

After a quick chat and a catch up from our previous meetings we headed out down the lane while still daylight, to walk the half mile or so to the 'Boots Bar' of the 'Clachaig Inn' where we'd meet local man sparnel and his wife for our evening meal.

The walk is well worth it, as It's a great pub, full of outdoorsy folk, It has a great atmosphere not to mention great food like the Haggis Tatties and Neeps, a choice made by snakehips on this evening, although sparnels order got mixed up a little. You pay at the bar, get a ticket and when your table number is shouted out in a broad Scottish accent you collect the food from the bar and bring it back to your table, sort of self service.

The bar also has live music at weekends from about 9.00pm.

apologies to Sparnel and his wife, I didn't get a snap of us all together.

From left to right, snakehips, yorksgal, Summit and me, jontea.

After a couple of pints of Loch Lomond, and a few good laughs, the long day was telling on us all, and with an early start for the Ballachulish horseshoe in the morning, the group said farewell to Sparnel and his wife, who were unable to join us for the walk.
With head torches on, we made our way back along the pitch black lane to the hostel, twenty minute away, finishing with a quick brew before bed.

A quick brew before bed

Unusually our five bed room had a double bed in it, which had been quickly bagged by snakehips on arrival, I think he fell in love with this bed over the weekend, while the rest of us settled into our standard bunk beds, still chatting until we dropped off one by one. Some of the best conversations, one liners and laughs are from a hostel bunk bed after lights out, and Friday night didn't disappoint.

snakehips double bed, he did love his bed.

In spite of Snakehips loving his big double bed, he is an early early riser and sure enough he was up out of bed by 5.30am making a brew in the hostel kitchen.

Reluctantly, I was up next followed by yorksgal and summit. A cold shower wasn't the best start to the day, I could hear summit screaming from the other side of the hostel, 

but it was refreshing!!!

By 7.00am (extremely early for a hostel meet) we were all having breakfast, making pack ups, drinks and busy sorting our gear for the days hike.

The plan was to take two cars, and park one in South Ballachulish (the end of the walk) then all head back to the start point in Ballachulish itself in the other car. This would save about 3 miles of road walking at the end of the day.

The weather looked promising, overcast but dry and mild for October thanks to hurricane Ophelia, but breezy.

We were actually kitted and ready to walk for 8.50am!!! Unbelievable.

Our route would take us out of the village south, passing the school, before heading west up the steep and boggy side of the more easier ridge which leads to Sgorr Bhan 947m. This peak blocks the view of Sgorr Dhearg 1024m our first Munro. Then a descent of about 250m to a col before the climb to the second Munro of the day, Sgorr Dhonuill at 1001m returning to the col, before descending into Gleann a Chaolais, through the pine forest back to the car. About 9.5 miles and about 4,300ft of ascent, that was the plan.

Sgorr Bhan summit is just left of centre. School House Ridge is to the left of the peak. and our route was keeping just right of the trees, to gain the ridge to the right.

But unfortunately plans can change, and we had talked the night before about walking at a nice steady pace, we had all experienced health issues in recent months apart from yorksgal. Don't get me wrong, we were all capable of doing this walk, we have done many similar together. But none of us were at full fitness, which is why we started early, so to avoid pressure of a quicker pace due to losing light later in the day.

Looking back down at Ballachulish and the Pap of Glencoe (Sgorr na Ciche) popping up over the hill behind.

We made our way up the pathless heather and grassy hillside away from the village, picking our way through boggy patches and random streams of water, before climbing over a wired fence.

Pickled onions anyone?   Summit making it look.........easy?

We felt a bit relieved to pick up the stony path that would take us onto the ridge. There was no sign of deer in the area as summit pointed out plenty of 'Reindeer Lichen' plant on the ground, which would have been eaten if deer were around, although we did hear a stag later in the Glen.

Looking out to the north and west, we could see heavy rain forming in the distance, the clouds were dropping and the wind was changing from light winds to strong gusts, and getting stronger by the minute.

Glen coe looking moody as the cloud moves in

At just over 600m and now on the more exposed ridge, the heavy rain finally caught up with us, coupled with high winds, clearly that forecast for bad weather later in the day came early. The summits were now out of sight in thick clag. 

At this point, if we continued towards Sgorr Bhan, we would be committed to continuing over the summit of Sgorr Dhearg 3,300ft. Without any bail out routes, apart from turning back, as a group, in those conditions we felt it would be unwise to continue on such a big walk, so we decided to leave the summits for another day, and look for an alternative route.

summit checking for an alternative route down

Forum member summit went to look for another option for a circular route back down to the village, rather than retracing our route up, but none could be found safely. So retrace our steps we did.

Back in the village of Ballachulish 

Five hours after starting the walk, we were driving back to the hostel to get a hot shower (this time) and changed.

To be honest, although I felt a little disappointed not to have reached a summit, there was a little bit of pleasure in the fact we had been out for five hours, had some cracking views to start with, and a good refreshing walk, but still back early enough to enjoy the evening.

Had we completed the walk, we would have returned late, probably struggled to find a free table in the pub and would've been totally drained.

We walked back to the 'The Clachaig Inn' a second night and had no trouble getting a table.

Having had a couple of pints and a belly full of food we all looked a little drowsy, and it was only 5pm!!! We would never last the night.

Summit suggested getting our heads down in the hostel for an hour, what a great idea I thought.

Having risen from a nap refreshed, we joined a busy hostel in drinking a few beers, soon snakehips would have his 'Jura' Scotch whisky out, and I presented a bottle of JD to the guys.

With a poor weather forecast for Sunday, there wouldn't be an early rise, so we just enjoyed a great evening into the small hours along with others in the hostel including a chap and his group who'd just completed his 

Munro's.

Once again back in the bunk room funny one liners continued late into the night although the level of Methane and sulphur in the room wasn't as funny, and an open window was essential!!!

But finally the room fell almost silent only for the rain bouncing off that open window.

Sunday morning, we were required to vacate our room by 10am. It was still raining, and once again the forecast wasn't good.

So an early morning walk before departure was shelved. There was talk of a visit to the nearby 'Ice Factor' to have a go on the climbing wall, and had we stayed another night we would have done this, but with a long drive ahead for Snakehips and myself, we decided to leave Glencoe mid morning once we had packed our gear up rather than leave it until early afternoon, which as it turned out, was a good call.

Having said our goodbyes, I left the hostel at 10.15am, it would take almost 9 hours to return home due to the M6 closed on both sides of the carriageway at junction 36 which I got stuck in for almost 2 hours, not what you need on a 312 mile drive.

We'd had two good meets weather wise in October 2014 and 2015, we were not as lucky this time. But although we didn't get much walking done, it was still a good weekend, and great to see forum members again.

Next year I think for me 4 days is needed, and maybe try September?

Thanks for reading, and I would appreciate any comments on your thoughts about the weekend we had.

The Coniston Six

I was looking for a respectable fell worthy of the title 100th Wainwright summit for my next Lake District outing.

The Old Man Of Coniston was an obvious choice. Mainly because back in February 2017, I'd set out to do the Coniston seven, a Lakeland classic, which includes The Old Man Of Coniston, Dow Crag, Brim Fell, Swirl How, Great Carrs, Grey Friar, and finally Wetherlam, But unfortunately the snow and ice that day was hard going as I attempted to do this in reverse, coupled with sub zero temperatures and developing cramp, meant I could only manage to summit 'Wetherlam' before returning home via Levers Water.

So I was keen to return and finish this classic route, and visit the remaining six peaks.

The planned route

The weather forecast for my day was a few light showers early morning then clearing by lunchtime giving clear and sunny skies for the afternoon.

I'd normally be concerned about arriving early enough to get a parking space in the usual tiny car parks and pull in’s around the Lake District, but in Coniston I have found a little spot on Tilberthwaite Ave where you can almost always get a spot for free, rather than pay the £8 charge for over 4 hours in the tourist car park.

As I drove the last few miles into the village, the rain was coming down in buckets, standing water everywhere and I was thinking this is more than a light shower, there was no sign of it letting up. It just looked set in for the day.

I parked up in the village looking out at torrential rain absolutely bouncing off the road. Two guys parked in front of me were sat doing the same. I'd guess we were all thinking the same, we'll wait a while and pray the rain eases off.

But time was ticking by and a time comes when you need to make the decision to go or not as it was now getting on for 10am.

I decided to put my faith in the forecasters and ride out the early wet weather.

I was trying out a new purchase today, a new ‘Kilpi’ shell jacket from Finland and thought this would be a good test.

Once suited and booted with waterproofs on, I finally left the warm dry comfort of my car, and headed out through the village and up the side road passing the Sun Hotel, following Church Beck to the bridge, passing the impressive waterfall.

The path divides here, last time I was here, I crossed the bridge and headed for Wetherlam through the Coppermines Valley and up by the Irish Row cottages. This time I was staying on the west side of the beck and heading straight up the main east route of the Old Man passing Low Water.

The rain was still just as heavy and the air was cool as I started the initial climb.

Understandably there were very few walkers to be seen in the cloudy wet conditions, but as I climbed at a slow but steady pace passing derelict buildings, crossing abandoned rusty steel cables, steel frames from the old aerial tramway towers and having passed Low Water, I caught up with two guys from Merseyside, “Jude, as in Jude Law” said one and “Steven as in Steven Gerard” hmm two very humerus lads whom made the last section of a long climb a little easier as we chatted all the way to the summit.

That all important summit shot to mark my 100th Wainwright peak

With the rain now easing off but wind now picking up, the two guys gave me a handshake and took a photo to mark my 100th fell, and continued their adventure on another route to mine. 

It was now 12pm and I decided to take shelter from the now breezy summit of the Old Man Of Coniston to grab a bite to eat and drink behind rocks as a large party of walkers had occupied the main summit base out of the wind.

With high wind and low cloud, I wasn’t going to hang around too long as it wasn’t the most pleasant of spots to enjoy a sit down and snack, so I was quickly packed up and plotted my next course towards ‘Dow Crag’ but at least the rain had now finally stopped.

I was still dry, but my new shell looked wetted out and it also felt heavier so I was thinking possibly not the best purchase I’ve made online.

The view of Goat's Water as I made my way to Dow Crag

The cloud was showing signs of lifting as I could now see Goats Water below to my left having dropped to the col then a short easy climb to this very rocky peak to reach my 101st Wainwright. But I was amazed just how slippery the Rhyolite rock was when wet, as I made a careful but simple scramble to the true rock summit. A quick check of the altimeter on my gps confirmed the summit as there isn’t a cairn to mark the summit here.

The rocky Dow Crag

Looking south on Dow Crag

The sun pops out briefly, a look back at Dow Crag as I return to the col

As the cloud continued to lift I was hoping that forecast I saw of sunshine the night before was finally on it’s way as I left ‘Dow Crag’ to retrace my steps back onto the Coniston ridge, and now aiming for ‘Brim Fell’ 

The walk over Brim Fell along the ridge is easy, a mere hump hardly a mountain yet a Wainwright so now three summits passed and three still to visit.

Looking at my route to come, the path on the right taking me up to Brim Fell. Then walking the ridge from right to left, Swirl How, and Great Carrs, far left is Grey Friar

As I continued the ridge walk leaving Brim Fell behind, I was able to strip the waterproofs off as the day improved with lifting clouds. It suddenly became really busy with walkers. Where had they all come from? Did they all start in that rain like myself?

View of the Coppermines Valley, and Coniston from Brim Fell

It was now feeling warm, a pleasant September Saturday afternoon was developing, as I picked my way over ‘Little and Great How Crags’ by the time I reached Swirl How around 2.45pm the sun was well and truly out.

Swirl How summit, and I was happier than I looked

Looking out north from Swirl How fantastic views of the surrounding fells to the north could be seen, and none more so than of Pike of Blisco and the Langdales where I was just a couple of months earlier.

Someone called this mountain ‘Pile of Biscuits’ and it just sticks in my head when I see it now.

It was just about a 20 minute walk to ‘Great Carrs’ the 5th summit of the day.

But a visit to the nearby memorial south of the summit is a must, where eight airmen were killed in October 1944 while lost when their Halifax bomber crashed in low cloud. A memorial stone in a cairn, plus parts of the undercarriage and a cross marks the spot. I removed my cap and stood reading the inscription for a short time. Respect to those brave men.

The memorial and Grey Friar beyond

My final peak of the day was ‘Grey Friar’ about 6.5 miles into the walk. Again another short easy walk from Great Carrs on a less well established path, definitely one only travelled on if you are bagging Wainwrights. But once there, some closer superb views of the Scafells can be seen.

Arriving on the final summit, the mountain has two cairns, and having visited both, felt the southern cairn was the true summit according to my gps.

The two summit cairns

It was now 3.40pm and I was about the furthest from the car in Coniston that I’d been all day, so I knew I’d be late back but I felt good, weather was great and I was now on 105 Wainwright’s.

As I made my way back to Swirl How then down the rocky ‘Prison Band’ heading for Levers Water my new shell coat was still drying out hours after the sun had come out, but still damp in the lower half of the arms and waist. Future dog walking coat? I think it was designed for cold but dry conditions as in Scandinavia, not the wet wet weather of Lakeland.

At the foot of Prison Band, I looked back up at the route I’d just descend and remembered the last time I was at this spot back in February, there was deep snow and ice, low cloud, sub zero temperatures and poor visibility.

I was thinking of continuing on to Swirl How at the time but it was mid afternoon I was tired had cramp and with only a couple of hours of daylight left, having not done this route before, I decided to leave it for another day.

I now know it was a good call to make, so with a satisfying smile on my face I made my way down to the tranquil Levers Water.

The path down to the water is one of those that just disappears into boggy wetlands, then reappears on another level, eventually picking it back up again for it to disappear again, so a lot of bog hopping and dodging.

Once by the waters edge there is a good solid dry path on the east side which takes you the length of Levers Water.

From here I continued back into Coppermines Valley following Church Beck passed the YHA.

As I made my way down, I could spot several parties of walkers descending the Old Man like an army of ants all homeward bound. 

The track of the day

I arrived back at the car at 6.15pm. Time to change, and something to eat and drink before heading home, 130 miles away.

Cheeks glowing and a feel good factor of 10 out of 10. An excellent day was had.

11 miles and 4,500ft of ascent in 8 hours, I’m not a fast walker and I believe in a steady pace, I also like to look around at the views often. I’ll forgive the weatherman this time because although the rain was heavy, it did indeed brighten up in the afternoon and I got my reward for that trust.

I hope you enjoyed reading my trip report, and thank you for any comments you might want to make.

Beaten By The Old Man

I left home at 5.45am for the 120 mile drive to Coniston. Dawn broke on a rather breezy cold Cumbria.
The weather forecast was giving gusts of 50mph and a wind chill factor of around -20 but mostly clear in the southwest of the park, with occasional snow showers. so I was quite optermistic of some good views from up high.

My plan was to bag Wetherlam, Swirl How, Great Carr and if the going was good, Brim Fell and the Old Man himself.

Parking at the Coniston tourist information centre initially, until I realised it would cost £9 for the day, so I quickly moved the car to the nearby Ruskin Ave for free.

I decided to take on Wetherlam first, and set off just before 9:00am crossing the bridge in the village, up to the Sun Inn then following Church Beck taking the route along the Coppermine Valley and Red Dell.

Church Beck waterfall

Looking back down the path towards Coniston

A view of the Old Man Of Coniston, and the YMCA standing at the foot.

The path up the valley follows Red Dell Beck and is a steady climb,

This route was working out well, as the wind forecast for the day was building steadily, so while I was in the valley I got some protection.
At 300 metres the accumulating water flowing off Black Sails and surrounding crags started to freeze, making the path and large areas a skating rink.

With microspikes on, the ice was no longer a problem, but the wind was starting to pick up

Red Dell Beck and a part frozen waterfall

Reaching the snowline at about 400 metres, the bitterly cold wind was getting stronger, snow showers had begun and I was in need of a sit down for a hot drink. and a bite to eat. 

I'd found the going tough through the boggy valley, then ice, and now frozen snow

Slurping hot vimto, and munching a chicken barm with a boiled egg, I sat on a rock, cushioned by my home made mat, looking back down the valley and Coniston water in the distance.

My gloves only came off for a couple of minutes, just to sort my pack out, putting food and flask away, but it was surprising just how quickly my hands started to get cold in the wind. 

At the head of the valley I took the steep route up to Red Dell Head Moss.

The snow surface was frozen but soft snow underneath, so each step would either stand my weight or crash through or it would be the next step, I wouldn't know until the snow was halfway up my shins, having dropped 15cm or so.

Wetherlam summit area was almost down to zero visibility with it snowing and low cloud, I don't think the gusting wind got to 50mph as forecast, but it wasn't far off that speed.

Just to give an idea of the conditions at 760m, on Red Dell Head Moss this was three directions of view, in wind I could only just stand up in and sub zero temperatures, I did wonder what the hell I was doing here all alone, but I was loving the challenge and the small risk.

I believe there are few paths here without snow, but certainly none to be found today, and it did take a few minutes to find the summit as it would appear to have a few lumps and bumps.     The going was much harder than expected and it had taken almost 3 hours to get to the summit.

I knew at this point the plan needed changing, as I'd just got behind time on the route, but rather than return down the valley, I headed for Swirl Hawse along Keld Gill Head on much firmer frozen snow.

This was the first sign of life up here today, footprints before me.

I sat looking up at what I could see of Prison Band at Swirl Hawse having dropped out of the cloud. At this point in the day I had about 2 hours walk (for me) back to Coniston from here which would take the days walk to 8.5 miles. I felt climbing 'Prison Band' for Swirl How and Great Carrs would just take too long in the weather conditions, there wouldn't be a view, and I didn't fancy a decent in the dark, plus I was knackered. That climb up the valley really took it out of me.

So reluctantly I headed for Levers Water while looking over me was a stunning Old Man of Coniston.

A last look back at Church Beck and the Old Man

I was back in the village of Coniston a little earlier than planned, so decided to skip an evening meal, and head the 120 miles home before night fall.