Fairfield Horseshoe

Having completed the Coledale Horseshoe a few weeks earlier, I was keen to do another one of these kind of walks, and after reading up on a number of them, one particular horseshoe stood out for me. 

Because of its location, when visiting Grasmere, Rydal and Ambleside, you’ll find the skyline to the north dominated by the Fairfield Horseshoe, which is one of the most popular classic walks in the Lakes District.

Like the Coledale, the Fairfield Horseshoe is just over 10 miles. It includes the fells of Low Pike, High Pike, Dove Crag, Hart Crag, Fairfield, Great Rigg, Heron Pike and Nab Scar, eight fell summits ranging from 450m to 873m all a stones throw from Ambleside, which will be my start point in the eastern fells.

I’d been waiting for a good weather forecast for this one, I wanted to experience the wonderful views this walk affords as it’s central position is one of the best. I’d chosen to go anti-clockwise because having read other reviews, I believed the best section was walking from Fairfield to Nab Scar where you are walking into the best view, rather than having to turn around to admire it. 

Although I was parking in the quite large Rydal Road car park in Ambleside, it was a hot Bank Holiday Monday, so I expected it filling up fast, an early start was essential to guarantee a parking space.

I was on the road by 7.00am on a glorious warm August morning. The M6 and A591 were busy with holiday traffic but it was moving steadily. 

However once approaching Ambleside I always seem to get stuck in traffic at the one way system, so it was after 9.00am I finally parked the car.

Having quickly paid my £7.00 to park for the day, splashed the sun cream on my arms, legs, face and neck, I was on my way in shorts and base layer.

Navigating out of Ambleside wasn't too difficult having crossed the busy A591 at the roundabout I turned left off Smithy Brow just before the ‘Golden Rule’ pub onto Nook Lane, a very narrow lane with a few businesses dotted along it as well as residential properties.The lane seemed to go on forever but eventually I passed Nook End Cottages and was heading for a small wood at the foot of Low Pike.

It was about 9.40am I was pretty hot already, the sun was out with baking strength as I crossed Scandale Beck and started the ascent to Low Pike. I noticed a few black fly like things flying around my head being very irritating as I wafted them away with my cap.

Scandale Beck

Views looking back to Ambleside could now be seen as I continued the steady climb

A steady ascent to Low Pike

Following a path which hugged an extremely high wall, which to be honest, blocked out some potentially excellent views out west, which spoilt this section of the walk. I’m 5’ 10” so  I’m not small, but I couldn’t see over it for a good chunk of the time, but it's farmland and a farmers need is more than good views.

Approaching Low Pike

Low Pike Cairn

When I got to Low Pike cairn, there was a mass of flying black ants all around the stones, I don’t know whether it was the heat from the rock, but they just seemed to magnetise themselves to the cairn, probably a nest in the cairn.

I was looking for a place to stop and have a look at my heel, it felt a bit hot but I wasn’t stopping around here, so I pushed on following the wall. 

Some walkers have noted this area being boggy, but it was pretty dry for me, but then it was a dry August. 

I could see where it would cause problems after wet weather but I had no issues on the route apart from flying ants.

Looking back at Low Pike

After reaching High Pike, where a woman and what looked like her son were just leaving the stone cairn, I was able to take my boot off to have a look at my now painful heel. A blister had formed right on the back of my heel, I really don’t know why now, obviously heel rub, but they were fine on the Coledale walk. Perhaps my feet were a bit more sweaty today? Or maybe the way I’ve tied the laces.

Anyway I dug out my first aid kit and stuck a ‘Compeed’ blister plaster on it, I put my sock and boot back on and started to walk. It didn’t feel too uncomfortable at first, so I continued to march onwards towards Dove Crag, but the heel pain returned by the time I’d arrived at my third summit.

Dove Crag

While at Dove Crag I decided to put up with it until I got to Hart Crag, where I would sit down, have some lunch and sort the foot out. I had a plaster on it, so there wasn’t much else I could do, just grin and bear it I thought to myself.

When I did eventually reach the summit of Hart Crag, I found my Compeed plaster had folded over on itself after not sticking properly causing more harm than good as it had taken all the skin off. I left my sock off for a time, allowing the skin to dry while I sat on a grassy slope looking down at Dovedale and Brothers Water before sticking another plaster on it. By now the heel was really painful.

I was thinking of turning around and heading back to the car at this point as my heel was burning so much. Walking solo there isn’t anyone to help you off the mountain or give you some advice about what to do if things go wrong, and I would never call out a MRT for a pitiful heel blister. I had to make the call myself on what to do and deal with however the days events unfold, even if it means crawling off the mountain.

I’d walked 4.5 miles so far, almost halfway around the horseshoe. All I had to do was get to Fairfield and I’d be collecting another four Wainwright’s while heading home. My theory was going down hill, which the majority of the afternoons walking would be, my foot will be pushing forward taking pressure off the back of the heel, thus less painful, that way I’ll have eight Wainwright’s bagged rather than four.

With this thought process in mind, my sock and boot was put back on. I put Fairfield in my sights, and with the grimmest expression of pain on my face I pushed on, determined to complete the horseshoe.

Fairfield in my sights

Standing at Rydal Head, looking at the winding Rydal Beck

It was a relief to get to Fairfield, at 873m, my highest point of the day, and although it was a beautiful day, hot, sunny, with lots of walkers happy to be on the fell around me, not to mention the views out to Helvellyn’s Striding Edge, St Sunday Crag and a whole host of other fells surrounding me, I wasn’t enjoying it one bit.That last climb up onto the fell was excruciating.

Superb views of Dollywaggon Pike, Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn's Striding Edge

The little hump of Cofa Pike leads to St Sunday Crag

Crags on the northeast side of Fairfield

The summit of Fairfield was busy, it’s a broad summit with lots of small cairns.

Navigating off the summit today was fine, but in mist I imagine it could be tricky.

I didn’t stay on the summit long, every time I stopped, I would get a burning pain from it once walking again. 
The only thing I could do was push on to Great Rigg 766m. and once walking my heel was starting to ease, I’m not sure if it was just going numb or my theory of foot pushing forward on the down hill was playing out.

Great Rigg and Heron Pike viewed from Fairfield summit

Looking back at Fairfield summit

I thought I’d seen the last of the flying ants, but they were again swarming round a cairn, this time Great Rigg. As the pain reduced I started to enjoy the views. Yes, this was a great section minus the ants, views down to Grasmere and especially Helm Crag were superb.
further afield Coniston and Langdales.

Great Rigg cairn

Grasmere

Having passed Heron Pike 612m at 8 miles it was time for a pee break. I picked a spot well off the path out of sight, but then found myself overlooking Alcock Tarn where I could see people in a canoe, they must have carried it up there, not the easiest place to paddle as it must be about 360 metres high. I was still about 250 metres above them, so pretty much out of vision.

I also decided to sit down and have some food (not in the same spot) after using gel on my hands. The thing is, no one ever mentions these facts in walking books or most blogs, but there aren’t any toilets in these mountains, if you need to go, you go. Who goes all day without a pee?

Seat matt put away along with the empty sandwich box, I looked towards Ambleside with a warm feeling of relief knowing I was almost down.

Alcock Tarn and Grasmere in the distance

Helm Crag below,  Easedale and the Langdales beyond 

By the time I got to Nab Scar my heel pain was quite manageable, fantastic views of Rydal Water just below the fell show the lake glistening in the afternoon sunshine.

Steep steps make the descent off the fell hard on the knees but at least it took my mind off the heel.

High Pike, Dove Crag, Hart Crag

Views of Ambleside and Windermere from Nab Scar

Nab Scar

Once down off the fell, I just needed to make my way through Rydal Hall, a world heritage site set in over 30 acres of woodland and gardens

They have a cafe here, but I wasn’t stopping. Only the sight of the stunning waterfall and ‘The Grot’ delayed me for a short time while I took a photo. This is a summer house type building that sits by the stunning waterfall developed by Sir Daniel Fleming in the 17th century.

It should have been a beautiful walk through the Rydal grounds, and it was beautiful, but my enduring pain was overshadowing any pleasure I might gain from the surroundings. 

What a fantastic walk this is

Almost at the A591, and one last look back

A short walk along the A591 full of queuing bank holiday traffic trying to get through Ambleside’s one way system saw me hobbling back to my car. I had done it, the Fairfield Horseshoe. It punished me for seven painful miles, but I came away with eight Wainwright’s and some valuable experience. Again I need to look at my boots, and find some answers as this just can’t happen again.

Coledale Horseshoe

Following in the footsteps of Alfred Wainwright really appealed to me, mainly because it would not only be a challenge to myself to visit all 214 mountain summits on his list, but it would also be a fantastic journey, and great way to see all of this wonderful national park, and put me into places I wouldn’t normally get to.

I already had two summits on Alfreds list already done, so my plan of action was to start with the horseshoe walks first. Climbing one initial mountain and walking the summits linked, usually in a u shape, will enable me to visit a few summits in one day, thus giving me a bit of a start.

Still improving my kit I purchased a drinks bladder to save me stopping to take my rucksack off every time I need a drink.

And I also bought a GPS for a bit of added security. I would be walking in all weathers in the future, in unfamiliar terrain and although I have map and compass and know how to use them, I felt it would be useful to confirm my position when I felt the need to by a reliable waterproof unit, plus track my route and have an altimeter to refer to for a reference.

Today would be a first for me. whenever I have gone to the Lakes, I’ve stayed in b&b’s, cottages hotels etc with my wife. But today I was going to drive to the Lake District, do a classic walk and drive home on the same day. About 2.5 hours drive each way, so a long day in store.

Having done a little homework on various walks, I chose the Coledale Horseshoe, this had nothing too technical to climb and would include Grisedale Pike, Hopegill Head, Crag Hill, Sail, Scar Crags, Causey Pike, Outerside, and finally Barrow. 8 summits in a u shaped valley of 10.4 miles. 

A tough first Horseshoe, but I don’t think any are easy.

The Coledale Beck runs down the valley joining up with the Newlands Beck before flowing into the nearby Bassenthwaite Lake

The disused mine of Force Crag sits at the head of the valley, and was used to mine lead and silver back in the 1800’s.

It’s now owned by the National Trust after the mine collapsed in 1990.

I was starting from the little village of Braithwaite, parking just off the Whinlatter  Pass with only room for about six cars. So I needed to be there early, and planned to be there for 9am. This meant leaving home at 6.30am allowing a loo stop on the way.

I was packed and ready the night before with just food and drink to take out of the fridge in the morning, so after a quick shower I left pretty much on time. 

The M6 was quiet which gave me a good run north, the sun was out, and it was looking like a good day ahead.

The views of Blencathra and the Coledale Round as I drove down the A66 was fabulous, especially Grisedale Pike knowing I was about to climb it. I was buzzing with excitement and couldn’t wait to get there.

I arrived in the village of Braithwaite on time but I was still the third car to park up in the small car park, as it turned out there was plenty of roadside parking as well so I needn’t of worried.

Not knowing what to expect of the day, how hard it would be, I had a brew and a banana to fill the energy levels up while I got to grips with my GPS resetting mileage distance before heading out. 

Straight from the car park, I’m greeted with steps up onto a winding steep path, snaking through greenery. 

This initial climb up was brutal, with no time to warm the leg muscles. In absolutely no time at all I was looking back down over Braithwaite village, hot and breathless already!!! This was a tough start to the day.

Looking across the meadows east from above Braithwaite, The Skiddaw range 

The steep slopes by Hospital Platation

A great view looking down on Braithwaite village

After the initial steep ascent, I was soon on Kinn 374m and my newly acquired fancy GPS confirmed it. This is where the climb plateaus out for a brief spell and gave me a chance to catch my breath and look out to the Skiddaw range to the east, and the Whinlatter Forest to the north before looking at Sleet How in front of me, towering above. I could also see most of the days walk ahead as I ploughed on up Sleet How in the June sunshine. It was a two mile slog to the summit and the last section was the steepest part on the well established path. Never had my boots been so dry but dusty in all my walking in the Peak District.

Kinn, it's path snakes from left to right up to the summit of Grisdale Pike.

Weighing up the afternoons mountains of Causey in the distance, Outerside and Barrow

The Grisedale grind

Another shot of the Skiddaw range and Blencathra beyond

The final steep slog to Grisedale Pike summit

Finally I had ascended Grisedale Pike and all of it's 791metres, my first summit of the day, and to be honest I was feeling it. It was only about 11am but I sat down and looked across at the other side of the Horseshoe. Causey Pike, Sail, and below them the little chocolate box of Outerside, and I wondered if I’d have the energy to do them all.

Having looked up many times from Keswick, I was now looking down from Grisedale Pike.

Sat on Grisedale Pike summit, looking at the green Outerside and Causey Pike beyond

Funny though, after a few minutes gazing at Keswick and the surrounding mountains in beautiful sunshine, I had recovered, and ready to carry on. Eyeing up Hopegill Head and the rock face of Hobcarton Crag in the distance, my next waypoint. 

I'm going that way. Eel Crag (left) Grasmoor (Centre) Hopegill Head (Right)

My next waypoint, Hopegill Head

It was a nice easy walk from Grisedale Pike down the well trodden path, and great views northwards could be seen along it with Whinlatter and the surrounding forest not far away. Looking over to the other side of the Horseshoe to the southeast I was able to weigh up my afternoon walking on Sail, Scar Crags and Causey Pike.

Hopegill Head was soon reached, and a great view down the ridge to Whiteside could be seen, one for another day I think.

The weather had turned a bit, cloud was forming with rain forecast later in the day.

View of the ridge from Hopegill Head to Whiteside, and just picking out Crummock water.

I was now heading over Sand Hill, down to Coledale Hause where I stopped by Liza Beck for a bite to eat. 

Here by the stream, I removed my boots and socks for a dip in the cold flowing waters. 
I always find it refreshing dipping my feet during a walk, even changing socks helps to freshen them up.

The GPS seemed to be working well and really pleased with its performance so far, showing I'd covered just over three miles, and the altimeter looked pretty accurate.

Hillsides running into Coledale Beck

Selfie on Sand Hill

Looking back down the Horseshoe from Coledale Hause 

My second stop, just after mid-day and a dip here in Liza Beck. Grisedale Pike is the far peak in the background

Energised after a drink and snack, my freshly washed feet were rejuvenated, so I left the Coledale Hause behind as I made the gentle climb up to a well defined crossroads.

If I carried straight on, I’d be heading down into Buttermere. Some walkers will turn right here, and include Grasmoor in the Horseshoe walk, before returning back to this point to carry on. 

Not me, Grasmoor will be one for another day. I felt what I was already doing today was enough. So I’m turning left up the steep grassy hill to Crag Hill 839m the highest point of the day.

I felt quite pleased with myself here at Crag Hill, I felt good, and from here I was heading back towards Braithwaite, I was over halfway around having passed 5 miles with three Wainwright summits in the bag I still had five to go, but I’d covered the toughest part of the day and felt confident, plus although cool, the sun was back out again.

Trig point on Crag Hill

I met a guy on the summit here, we had a chat and he snapped a photo of me at the summit. He then began telling me of all the walks he’d been on recently in Yorkshire. I was interested, but at the same time a little aware of the time ticking on, so I made my excuses and headed towards Sail.

The path from Crag Hill to Sail is narrow, but nothing to worry about. Views out to the south to the nearby ridge of Knott Rigg and Ard Crags are superb. The stunning Newlands Valley and Buttermere beyond, over looked by Red Pike, High Stile and High Pike.

Simply Sail

The passage down from Sail can not pass without mentioning the snaking path down  to Scar Crags, I have got to say it looked a totally unnatural mark on the landscape, raised off the hillside, I only hope in time the view from Scar Crags to Sail isn’t a permanent scar and the path blends in.

Not the best shot of the Sail path, but a scar none the less

A shot of the Buttermere fells of High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike. Buttermere Moss to the left of photo, and Sail Beck in the valley below, which runs into Crummock Water.

The Newlands fells and Knott Rigg in the foreground

Ard Crags

Rigg Screes

Rigg Beck, running between Rigg Screes and Scar Crags

The walk to Causey Pike was steady and really enjoyable, appreciating the surrounding views after negotiating the humps leading to the summit cairn at 673m. 

From here excellent scenery of Keswick, Derwent Water and it’s sailing boats, the Newlands Valley, the Skiddaw range, Blencathra the Helvellyn range, oh I could go on.......and I do but It was just stunning.

Causey Pike summit

I could now see the old lead mine at the head of Coledale Beck, and Force Crag.

It had been a long day already, Outerside and Barrow were options I could opt out of if I’d run out of steam. Looking down from Causey Pike, Outerside looked tiny.

No problem I thought, easy....A path not on the map took me directly down to meet the path from Sail. As I descended off the ridge, looking over, Outerside just got bigger and bigger. By the time I was at the foot of the fell, I really had to dig deep into my reserves to keep going, I was determined to summit all eight fells. Once at the summit of Outerside at 568m it was a relief to see the going ahead was easy, and it was apart from a bit of bog near Barrow 455m.

Outerside summit

view of Grisedale Pike from Outerside

Looking back at Outerside 

Beautiful views as I walk to Barrow summit

Barrow summit ahead

Looking back at the days walking

Barrow summit

It’s a steepish descent down to Little Braithwaite and the farm from Barrow, tough on my knees, so I was glad to be back down on the flat of the farm track after passing through the farm and into the village, where I went slightly wrong navigating my way back to the car. 

I passed the Royal Oak pub, and as you’d expect on a lovely Summers afternoon a few drinkers were stood outside having a good old chin wag and laughs.

I was driving of course, a long one at that, so I resisted the temptation to join them.

This is one of the down sides to a solo walk. Not being able to share the days experience over a well earned pint.

I arrived back at the car about 5pm, tired, aching but satisfied. I’d throughly enjoyed the ten mile walk. The weather had been perfect, and I don’t think I could have chosen a better first Horseshoe route. I was planning the next trip before I arrived home safe and sound.

10 Wainwright’s done, just 204 to do, but I’m up for it.