Aber Falls and the Carneddau Range

December 2012, Having joined a walking forum, I was invited on my first meet. 
I felt I needed to open up some more opportunities for walking in other areas of the country and meet more like minded folk. Andy wasn't able to walk as often as I liked, he was also suffering a back injury, so It was time to branch out.  

The route planned was from Aber Falls and covered 7 peaks over 14 miles, climbing from 65m up to 1064m.
Being December, there was quite a bit of snowfall on the higher ground.
The invite was unexpected and all a bit last minute, so I stupidly didn't check the map and the route. although I did have map and compass, I just sat back ready to follow, a mistake I have never made since.

I was nervous meeting these guys. I'd never walked in a group before, I had no real mountain experience unless you count a hand full, no I didn't think so.
First impressions as we all gathered around to say hello?.......an uncomfortable quietness.
Maybe it was the gear I was wearing, cheap by their standards, but hey, it's all I could afford, but maybe they thought I wasn't a seasoned walker, I'm not sure if I was.  

It's a pleasant walk from the car park to the falls, first through woodland, then over scree which becomes quite steep as you get closer to the waterfall.
These guys set out at quite a pace, and I found it a little too fast and quickly found myself at the back of the group along with a guy slightly older than myself.
Just after the scree there is an extremely tricky wet section of rock, right above the falls. A slip here could be fatal, but climbing up wasn't too bad.
I remember one of the lads saying he wouldn't like to return this way, as we scrambled across the wet rock.

The pace continued as we followed the Afon Goch between Llwytmor and Bera Mawr. 

Problem we had was crossing the stream, which was in full spate. so we continued along the path by the stream hoping for a safe crossing point. 

The leading lads would stop and wait further along the path for us, but then would carry on as soon as we almost reached them, so my time to rest and get the heart rate down just saw the gap open up again.

All was going well and I was coping until the time came to cross the stream.

We needed to jump, and I mean jump, full stretch.there really wasn't a narrow section as an option and our route to Bera Mawr was getting steeper while continuing along the path by the Afon Goch.

This was our best option, and probably the safest without walking to the head of the stream, which would have added more miles to the route.

On landing on the far side of the stream, both my calf muscles went into spasm!!!

We were at the foot of Bera Mawr 794m, and the steep climb had only just started.
It was relief when the group decided to stop for a drink and a bite to eat.
I sat massaging my legs, drinking water and trying to down all the sugar foods I could find, hoping the cramp was temporary.
The break was short, rucksacks packed like commando's going into battle. then they were gone.
I found the majority of the six guys were cool, not unfriendly but not very welcoming.
it was my first forum meet, and I wanted to give it a good try.

I pushed on up the mountain, trying not to embarrass myself, and managed to reach the first summit still experiencing sporadic cramp on the steep terrain. 
By the time I reached the summit, the other guys had moved on, so no chance of a chat to discuss my problem.

Walking to the next peak was a lot easier, almost flat, but both calf muscles would go into this painful spasm while stepping over small boulders. To be fair, the senior chap in the group stayed with me, trying to give me some encouragement. 

I was pretty slow by now, the cramp was a real problem, I was really struggling, and by the time I finally arrived at Bera Bach 807m, it was clear as I reached the summit I couldn't continue. 
These guys were stood waiting for me, they had a long way to walk if they were to complete the route, and limited daylight meant a short day. 
plus above the snow line it was full winter conditions so the going would be hard. I was clearly holding them up.

A descent in low cloud would be tricky along the unfamiliar Afon Goch with many concealed drops to catch the unwary out, as the path is a poor one higher up.
However, today the cloud base was high and I felt confident of navigating my way back along the stream as this was the best option with continuing spasms in my legs.
I had a map and compass, so assured the group i would be okay.

Embarrassed, having only met these guys about a couple of hours earlier, and annoyed with myself, for not preparing for this properly I left the group to continue their hike while I dropped back down the valley,
I was relieved the pressure was off, and could sit and rest for a while. Stretching the calfs as much as I could, but I was a little concerned about revisiting that wet slippery rock section above the falls.
On arriving back at the wet rock, the down flowing stream that runs across it was flowing a little more than a few hours earlier, making it a treacherous crossing.
I was so nervous, I slipped on my waterproof trousers and slid over the rock on my arse.

I put the cramps down to a lack of fitness on my part and a fast pace by the group, climbing 1,300ft in a mile from the falls was a tough start.
I messaged the group once I was back at the car, as they'd asked, just to let them know I was down safely.

I have never walked with any of the group since.




10 months later, I was a lot fitter having been in the gym all summer, dropping from 12st to 11st I decided to return on my own and finish the walk I started.

See Aber Falls and the Carneddau Range revisited.

Bleaklow

It was a damp October weekend, and I hadn’t been walking for a few weeks. 

So having read about crash sites in Derbyshire, the B29 Superfortress site on Bleaklow caught my eye as there is plenty of recognisable debris from the crash.

I have seen a couple of crash sites on Kinder Scout, and to be honest, those crash sites could have been washing machines for all I knew, but this one on Bleaklow looked interesting, and made for a good 9 mile trip.

I arrived at the industrial end of Old Glossop early Saturday morning, parking on Shepley street near the bus turning circle. There is plenty of free parking here as it’s situated in a non residential area. Today I was going for a solo walk to find the crash site on Bleaklow. Following the ‘Doctor’s Gate’ path which at one time was a late medieval horse path built between 1494 and 1535 and financed by Doctor Talbot a vicar of Glossop.

The start of the walk in Old Glossop

The route starts right from the bus turning circle as a farm track and takes you passed farmland beyond Mossy Lea Farm, the path then peels off the track running into the Clough following the running waters of Shelf Brook.

Clouds obscure Higher Shelf Stones

The bridge crossing Shelf Brook

After gaining a little height, the path drops down to the brook and a bridge is crossed.

It’s a bit of a long slog from here, the path disappears in boggy sections and had me standing on a spot, working out my next driest course of direction.

Height is slowly gained and the path changes from the wet mushy bog lower down to a stoney limestone path as I get closer to the end of Doctor’s Gate.

Wet boggy ground in the lower section of Doctor's Gate

The path in a small area is breaking away due to rainfall

Looking back down Doctor's Gate

Bad weather looms over Higher Shelf Stones. Crooked Clough can be seen to the right of photo

My aim was to take a path north east along ‘ Crooked Clough’ before Doctor’s Gate joined the ‘Pennine Way’ the path isn’t well established and the junction is marked by a small cairn, but this is the easiest way to ‘Higher Shelf Stones’ my next target on my route.

The path crosses the brook at the head of the Clough and from here it’s just a short ascent up to the trig point of ‘Higher Shelf Stones’ 621m.

Inscriptions on Higher Shelf Stones

Although overcast all morning, the rain had held off until now. I tried to take shelter as best as I could in order to take a drink and have a snack. It was cold, wet and uncomfortable, so after a quick stop I headed away from the trig. I should have taken a north east compass heading and within a minute I’d be walking amongst the crash site, however I headed north, and completely missed the site.

Hern Stones

Now Bleaklow isn’t called Bleaklow for no reason. It really is bleak up here on a dull overcast day, wild, rugged and can be unforgiving. The tops of this moorland are covered with peat groughs, some as deep as 3m which make it difficult to traverse. Navigation is needed even in fine weather as walking a straight line route of any distance over this landscape is almost impossible. 

Negotiating the huge peat hags was difficult and disorienting as I manoeuvred my way around them and back up to the higher ground, checking my bearings each time.

Passing ‘Hern Stones’  a walker crossed my path, and I ask him about the crash site. Luckily he knew exactly where the site was and pointed me to the spot in the distance. With a thanks, we parted in different directions.

Now my plans had to change as I wanted to visit Wain Stones and ‘Bleaklow Head’ as well as the crash site.

So I continued on my heading north to Wain Stones. Standing at the correct angle, these stones appear to be kissing, which is why they are also known as the ‘Kissing Stones’ from here it’s a NNE heading for Bleaklow Head which is marked by a pile of stones and a pole.

 Wain Stones (Kissing Stones)

Bleaklow Head 633m

From here I returned pretty much on the same route back towards ‘Higher Shelf Stones’ keeping slightly east through thick peat bog and deep groughs, but at least it had stopped raining.

Eventually I arrived at the crash site of the B29 Superfortress bomber. I have to say this is an amazing place, but also a sad place. The first thing I saw were the peat banks, covered with placed poppy crosses. Then the large undercarriage with remnants of rubber still around the wheels. A huge section of wing and many loose pieces of metal lay in the peat.

A stone memorial sits at the site to mark the 13 men killed when the bomber named ‘Over Exposed’ crashed into the moor.

It was flying from Scampton in Lincolnshire to Burtonwood a USAF base, near Warrington. 

I stood for a few moments to pay my respects before leaving the site and making my way on a heading northwest to ‘Dowstone Clough, picking up a faint path along the way.

I crossed the waters of Yellow Slacks Brook before descending Harrop Moss. This path brought me down to the Doctor’s Gate track and back to Old Glossop and the car.

The walk covered 9 miles in just under 5 hours.

The path to Dog Rock

Yellow Slacks

This was a brilliant walk, but I wanted to share the crash site experience with someone. My walks with Andy are too few and far between, so I need a plan...........

Helvellyn

During our walk on Snowdon back in April, Andy expressed his love of The Lake District and talked in particular about the handful of peaks he’d climbed. One of which he was so keen to show me........Helvellyn, the third highest mountain in the Lake District at over 3,000ft even it’s name is filled with menace, danger, and adrenaline filled adventure. Okay it’s not Everest, K2 or Lhotse, but for someone who until recently only got to the dizzy heights of Kinder Scout it was a big deal for me.

Of coarse Andy would choose the one route he’d done with his father-in-law, climbing up to the ‘Hole in the Wall’ (a stile) from Patterdale before tackling the eastern ridge of Striding Edge to the summit. Then returning on the more northern ridge of Swirral Edge. For a good while I thought Andy was telling me it was ‘Squirrel Edge’ we’d be returning down, then back tracking back to Patterdale, clocking up just over 8 miles.

I completely left the planning of this day to Andy as he expressed his knowledge of the mountain. We were camping at Ullswater Holiday Park, Andy and I had decided our families should meet for the weekend, and spend a little time together.

It was a beautiful warm August morning in the Lake District, and we were all up by 7am. 

As Andy and I would be out for the day, our wife’s had planned a modest lowland walk near Keswick, then some shopping. 
Andy drove the car to the White Lion pub in Patterdale arriving about 9am, I had new boots again today, Meindl Borneo’s this time, believing they were a better fit than the ‘Burma’s’ I’d walked a few miles in them before the weekend and I felt a repeat of Inglebourgh wasn’t on the cards. Andy remembered his boots this time.

We set off from the White Lion back along the A592 and turned left at the cricket ground to follow the lane up by Grisedale Beck to a bridge.

Andy was really excited about today, I think I was more nervous at this point than excited. Andy was talking to me about the Wainwright mountain list, I’d heard of Alfred Wainwright, but didn’t really appreciate what he was about, what he stood for, and I didn’t know he had a list of mountains.

At this moment in time, I wasn’t ticking off Wainwright fells. I’d done Cat Bells with my wife but unfortunately we were heading for Helvellyn only, we could have planned in Birkhouse Moor and Catstye Cam, but this was Andy showing me Helvellyn, he had no interest in ticking off a Wainwright list, but nor was I bothered at the time.

Once at the bridge that crosses the beck in Grisedale, we could see our route, a steady straight path climbing above Patterdale Common. From here the skyline of Nethermost Pike and Dollywagon was ahead, and to the south, Birks and St Sunday Crag. 

The view up to the Striding Edge ridge

Although the air was fresh, as it was early. The forecast was excellent, warm and dry.

Andy wisely elected to wear shorts from the off, but I was a bit slow realising it was going to be a warm day, so zipped off my trouser leg bottoms low down in the Grisedale valley, before the real hard work started. 

I think we over packed for today, carrying waterproofs amongst other gear was unnecessary and made the climb up to ‘The Hole In The Wall’ a much harder one needing more than a couple of stops to get heart rates down and take on fluids.

Andy posing above Grisedale

Looking back towards Patterdale

The Hole in the wall is a mere stepped stile, but it’s not an ordinary stile, because the view from this stile looking into the direction of Helvellyn is fantastic, and the anticipation of Striding Edge.

The mountain holds out it’s two welcoming ridge arms. I hardly noticed Catstye Cam to my right, Swirral Edge looked exciting but my eyes were drawn to Striding Edge.

Andy’s enthusiasm was clear to see, he’d scrambled over Striding Edge before. 

I was excited yet apprehensive, walkers lose their lives every year on this ridge, so I felt a little cautious. 

The ridge was busy with walkers as you’d expect on a beautiful summers day so climbing onto the ridge at Low Spying How meant waiting in a small queue as it was difficult to pass a group of youngsters who were at best sluggish, but mainly static. Andy wasn’t keen on this, he didn’t want holding up and I felt a little cheated out of the early part of the ridge, and missing the Dixon Memorial. 

A closer look at Swirral Edge

Catstye Cam

Having walked the path on the right of the ridge with some gusto, Andy and I finally joined the ridge ahead of the young group, just before we were level with Red Tarn. Walking poles were put away, and I remember Andy stressing to me “three points of contact” I felt very comfortable on the rock, the apprehension disappeared and the whole experience started to feel exciting. 

Yours truly getting to grips with Striding Edge

Patients Andrew

There was no pressure to manoeuvre over the rock from people behind just because of the numbers on the ridge, as they were spread out most of the time, however queues would form at the more challenging spots where extra care was required, as it did when we arrived at the ‘Chimney’ after about a ten minute wait, it was my turn, following Andy. 

Although I could feel eyes weighing up my choice of foot and hand holds, I thought the climb down was smooth and easy enough. another scramble followed and we were soon off the ridge High Spying How and onto the last steep climb on loose rock and gravel which was difficult with now tired legs.

The Chimney

The last steep pull up to the summit

A memorial to Charles Gough sits close to the summit. It’s believed he fell and was killed in 1805. His dog stayed by the body. The body and dog were discovered by a shepherd three months later. The event was later put in a poem by William Wordsworth called ‘Fidelity’

Once at the summit, it was time to have a break. The purpose built stone walled shelter was occupied so we sat on a patch of grass and just absorbed the surrounding mountain view. I couldn’t really recognise any of the distant mountain names to the west, nor could Andy, it didn’t matter, it wasn’t any less beautiful, but probably amusing to anyone listening to us guessing what they might be while we munched on a sandwich.

As I looked at the broad summit, I was trying to imagine the biplane that landed here in 1926, amazing achievement.

Helvellyn trig point 3,117ft 

Red Tarn

Summit break over, my legs had recovered from that last gruelling climb up. My boots still felt good and I was ready to go.

Having traversed along the broad Helvellyn top, we arrived at the head of Swirral Edge along with a number of people, a well established path, but pretty steep initially. Again care was needed negotiating this higher section.

Steady and careful descent of Swirral Edge

Looking back up at Swirral Edge

From here Catstye Cam would have been so easy to summit as a path peels off to its summit, but Andy had other ideas. When we got to Red Tarn, a guy was just getting out of the water after a swim in the freezing cold lake. We thought he was mad, but apparently this ‘tarn swimming’ is a popular pastime, and to be fair, it was quite warm.

Red Tarn and the departed swimmer (right)

From the tarn, it was a short easy walk back to the ‘Hole in the Wall’ I had a touch of cramp in a calf muscle, nothing much but didn’t want any problems up here. Andy and I now returned back tracking down the long straight path which would take us back to Patterdale.

A last look back at Helvellyn

The final mile of just over eight

Once at the A592, it was a short walk along the road which meant passing the Patterdale Hotel. Outside were scores of walkers sat outside drinking in groups. That would have been nice to have had a pint in the sunshine amongst walkers, but we had arranged to meet our families and prepare a BBQ back on the campsite which we did, accompanied with beer and wine and an excellent evening was had by all.

It was an excellent days walking, and I was grateful to Andy for showing me Helvellyn, but I was beginning to feel I needed to look at new avenues to get the fulfilment I needed. I know I’ll return to Helvellyn, walking my own route at some point in the future, and visit the Dixon Memorial.