Aber Falls and the Carneddau Range revisited

I had been waiting some time to return to this beautiful but rugged part of Wales,
for some unfinished business you might say, but I needed to be ready for this.

The route was to leave Aber Falls, heading for Bera Mawr, then Bera Bach, which was as far as I got last year. Yr Aryg, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Grach and the highest summit of the day Carnedd Llewelyn at 1064m. I'd then back track to Carnedd Gwenllian, before heading to the summit of Foel-fras and finally Drum, making my way back to Aber Falls.
It would be almost 14 miles.

It sounds daft, it's just a walk, but I failed to complete this walk with strangers almost a year earlier. I had made stupid mistakes, I was embarrassed, and I felt I'd let myself down and wanted to put that right. I wanted to prove to myself I could do it.
I guess having Crohn's Disease must help give me that thinking mentality, don't be beaten. 
Fitness had been a key issue last time I was here, so over the summer months I'd worked on that, and done a couple of confidence boosting walks in the Lake District. 
Was I ready to take on this epic walk after my disastrous last visit ? I was blumin hoping so.

I'd parked the car in the same spot as last time I was here, and apart from a van with a camera crew in it, the only sound to be heard was the stream. the place was pretty quiet.
By the time I got kitted up it was almost 9am, time to get going.

The walk to Abber Falls along the Afon Rhaeadr Fawr

Approaching the woods after leaving the stream and lane behind me. The impressive Aber Falls clearly in view ahead and the baby summit of Bera Mawr popping up in the centre skyline.

The stile at the end of the wooded section. The route ahead in sunshine

It's an easy start to the walk, after leaving the car park, I crossed a bridge over the Afon Rhaeadr Fawr, along a lane and through tall pine trees making a pleasant woodland warm up.all easy going on a perfect walking day, dry, warm, but overcast. 

Once out of the trees, the path rises onto a steep scree slope, sticking to the route taken on my previous visit, so at this point I was familiar with the route, and it took me right back to those memories.

The next two miles I would climb 2,400ft (730m) 

Looking back on the steep scree

This is the treacherous rock with water flowing across it. it doesn't look much in the photo, but it's as slippy as glass, and a fall here above the waterfall could be fatal.

Crossing the fast flowing stream early, makes for a better climb up onto the ridge leading to the summit, rather than following the valley path for the steeper climb up to Bera Mawr. But crossing the stream lower down isn't easy after a lot of rainfall, or snow melt and the down side is no path once the stream is crossed, making the climb up through heather a little more challenging.

The route up to Bera Mawr. I would be taking a track to the right of the photo

Looking back at the start point, Abergwyngregyn and in the distance Beaumaris is seen to the left of photo across the Conwy Bay

Looking east over the winding waters of Afon Goch to Llwytmor.

Wild ponies roam the land

Approaching Bera Mawr 794m and I thought I could see a mounted horse made out of stone

It had taken me a couple of hours to get to this point, crossing the stream early and taking the rough route up the ridge was in my opinion the best way up to this peak.

I'd found the whole mornings experience different. No pressure walking at your own pace, stopping when you feel you need to stop, then pushing on when ready.

Looking back at Bera Mawr

My next target was Bera Bach at 807m

At the Bera Bach summit, I felt good, and so satisfying to be pushing on to Yr Aryg after a short break for food and drink. It was about 11.50am now and still a lot of ground to cover.

These guys were the first walkers I'd seen in over 3 hours, standing on Yr Aryg 

Reaching Carnedd Gwenllian 926m at 1,10pm, it was time for another a break.

There's life in these hills, arriving at Carnedd Llewelyn 1,064m or 3,491ft

Some fantastic but hazy views from Carnedd Llewelyn 

The one and only summit pose with Yr Elen behind, one summit too far

Walkers descending back down into the Ogwen Valley

It was now 2pm and still had a lot of ground to cover, so I was now back tracking to Foel Grach and Carnedd Gwenllian

The shelter at Foel Grach

Foel-fras trig point

The spiky summit of Foel- fras 942m

The chair

Llwytmor and the waters of Llyn Anafon below

My final stop of the day, was at the 7th summit of Drum 770m 

It was another 90 minutes back to the car from Drum, arriving back at 5.15pm

A great day out in this wild landscape, I saw very few walkers out here, weather was kind with high cloud, and still felt good at the end of the day. Just the 2 hour drive home hmmm
I felt very pleased for returning, getting back out there and most importantly....enjoying.

Fairfield Horseshoe

Having completed the Coledale Horseshoe a few weeks earlier, I was keen to do another one of these kind of walks, and after reading up on a number of them, one particular horseshoe stood out for me. 

Because of its location, when visiting Grasmere, Rydal and Ambleside, you’ll find the skyline to the north dominated by the Fairfield Horseshoe, which is one of the most popular classic walks in the Lakes District.

Like the Coledale, the Fairfield Horseshoe is just over 10 miles. It includes the fells of Low Pike, High Pike, Dove Crag, Hart Crag, Fairfield, Great Rigg, Heron Pike and Nab Scar, eight fell summits ranging from 450m to 873m all a stones throw from Ambleside, which will be my start point in the eastern fells.

I’d been waiting for a good weather forecast for this one, I wanted to experience the wonderful views this walk affords as it’s central position is one of the best. I’d chosen to go anti-clockwise because having read other reviews, I believed the best section was walking from Fairfield to Nab Scar where you are walking into the best view, rather than having to turn around to admire it. 

Although I was parking in the quite large Rydal Road car park in Ambleside, it was a hot Bank Holiday Monday, so I expected it filling up fast, an early start was essential to guarantee a parking space.

I was on the road by 7.00am on a glorious warm August morning. The M6 and A591 were busy with holiday traffic but it was moving steadily. 

However once approaching Ambleside I always seem to get stuck in traffic at the one way system, so it was after 9.00am I finally parked the car.

Having quickly paid my £7.00 to park for the day, splashed the sun cream on my arms, legs, face and neck, I was on my way in shorts and base layer.

Navigating out of Ambleside wasn't too difficult having crossed the busy A591 at the roundabout I turned left off Smithy Brow just before the ‘Golden Rule’ pub onto Nook Lane, a very narrow lane with a few businesses dotted along it as well as residential properties.The lane seemed to go on forever but eventually I passed Nook End Cottages and was heading for a small wood at the foot of Low Pike.

It was about 9.40am I was pretty hot already, the sun was out with baking strength as I crossed Scandale Beck and started the ascent to Low Pike. I noticed a few black fly like things flying around my head being very irritating as I wafted them away with my cap.

Scandale Beck

Views looking back to Ambleside could now be seen as I continued the steady climb

A steady ascent to Low Pike

Following a path which hugged an extremely high wall, which to be honest, blocked out some potentially excellent views out west, which spoilt this section of the walk. I’m 5’ 10” so  I’m not small, but I couldn’t see over it for a good chunk of the time, but it's farmland and a farmers need is more than good views.

Approaching Low Pike

Low Pike Cairn

When I got to Low Pike cairn, there was a mass of flying black ants all around the stones, I don’t know whether it was the heat from the rock, but they just seemed to magnetise themselves to the cairn, probably a nest in the cairn.

I was looking for a place to stop and have a look at my heel, it felt a bit hot but I wasn’t stopping around here, so I pushed on following the wall. 

Some walkers have noted this area being boggy, but it was pretty dry for me, but then it was a dry August. 

I could see where it would cause problems after wet weather but I had no issues on the route apart from flying ants.

Looking back at Low Pike

After reaching High Pike, where a woman and what looked like her son were just leaving the stone cairn, I was able to take my boot off to have a look at my now painful heel. A blister had formed right on the back of my heel, I really don’t know why now, obviously heel rub, but they were fine on the Coledale walk. Perhaps my feet were a bit more sweaty today? Or maybe the way I’ve tied the laces.

Anyway I dug out my first aid kit and stuck a ‘Compeed’ blister plaster on it, I put my sock and boot back on and started to walk. It didn’t feel too uncomfortable at first, so I continued to march onwards towards Dove Crag, but the heel pain returned by the time I’d arrived at my third summit.

Dove Crag

While at Dove Crag I decided to put up with it until I got to Hart Crag, where I would sit down, have some lunch and sort the foot out. I had a plaster on it, so there wasn’t much else I could do, just grin and bear it I thought to myself.

When I did eventually reach the summit of Hart Crag, I found my Compeed plaster had folded over on itself after not sticking properly causing more harm than good as it had taken all the skin off. I left my sock off for a time, allowing the skin to dry while I sat on a grassy slope looking down at Dovedale and Brothers Water before sticking another plaster on it. By now the heel was really painful.

I was thinking of turning around and heading back to the car at this point as my heel was burning so much. Walking solo there isn’t anyone to help you off the mountain or give you some advice about what to do if things go wrong, and I would never call out a MRT for a pitiful heel blister. I had to make the call myself on what to do and deal with however the days events unfold, even if it means crawling off the mountain.

I’d walked 4.5 miles so far, almost halfway around the horseshoe. All I had to do was get to Fairfield and I’d be collecting another four Wainwright’s while heading home. My theory was going down hill, which the majority of the afternoons walking would be, my foot will be pushing forward taking pressure off the back of the heel, thus less painful, that way I’ll have eight Wainwright’s bagged rather than four.

With this thought process in mind, my sock and boot was put back on. I put Fairfield in my sights, and with the grimmest expression of pain on my face I pushed on, determined to complete the horseshoe.

Fairfield in my sights

Standing at Rydal Head, looking at the winding Rydal Beck

It was a relief to get to Fairfield, at 873m, my highest point of the day, and although it was a beautiful day, hot, sunny, with lots of walkers happy to be on the fell around me, not to mention the views out to Helvellyn’s Striding Edge, St Sunday Crag and a whole host of other fells surrounding me, I wasn’t enjoying it one bit.That last climb up onto the fell was excruciating.

Superb views of Dollywaggon Pike, Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn's Striding Edge

The little hump of Cofa Pike leads to St Sunday Crag

Crags on the northeast side of Fairfield

The summit of Fairfield was busy, it’s a broad summit with lots of small cairns.

Navigating off the summit today was fine, but in mist I imagine it could be tricky.

I didn’t stay on the summit long, every time I stopped, I would get a burning pain from it once walking again. 
The only thing I could do was push on to Great Rigg 766m. and once walking my heel was starting to ease, I’m not sure if it was just going numb or my theory of foot pushing forward on the down hill was playing out.

Great Rigg and Heron Pike viewed from Fairfield summit

Looking back at Fairfield summit

I thought I’d seen the last of the flying ants, but they were again swarming round a cairn, this time Great Rigg. As the pain reduced I started to enjoy the views. Yes, this was a great section minus the ants, views down to Grasmere and especially Helm Crag were superb.
further afield Coniston and Langdales.

Great Rigg cairn

Grasmere

Having passed Heron Pike 612m at 8 miles it was time for a pee break. I picked a spot well off the path out of sight, but then found myself overlooking Alcock Tarn where I could see people in a canoe, they must have carried it up there, not the easiest place to paddle as it must be about 360 metres high. I was still about 250 metres above them, so pretty much out of vision.

I also decided to sit down and have some food (not in the same spot) after using gel on my hands. The thing is, no one ever mentions these facts in walking books or most blogs, but there aren’t any toilets in these mountains, if you need to go, you go. Who goes all day without a pee?

Seat matt put away along with the empty sandwich box, I looked towards Ambleside with a warm feeling of relief knowing I was almost down.

Alcock Tarn and Grasmere in the distance

Helm Crag below,  Easedale and the Langdales beyond 

By the time I got to Nab Scar my heel pain was quite manageable, fantastic views of Rydal Water just below the fell show the lake glistening in the afternoon sunshine.

Steep steps make the descent off the fell hard on the knees but at least it took my mind off the heel.

High Pike, Dove Crag, Hart Crag

Views of Ambleside and Windermere from Nab Scar

Nab Scar

Once down off the fell, I just needed to make my way through Rydal Hall, a world heritage site set in over 30 acres of woodland and gardens

They have a cafe here, but I wasn’t stopping. Only the sight of the stunning waterfall and ‘The Grot’ delayed me for a short time while I took a photo. This is a summer house type building that sits by the stunning waterfall developed by Sir Daniel Fleming in the 17th century.

It should have been a beautiful walk through the Rydal grounds, and it was beautiful, but my enduring pain was overshadowing any pleasure I might gain from the surroundings. 

What a fantastic walk this is

Almost at the A591, and one last look back

A short walk along the A591 full of queuing bank holiday traffic trying to get through Ambleside’s one way system saw me hobbling back to my car. I had done it, the Fairfield Horseshoe. It punished me for seven painful miles, but I came away with eight Wainwright’s and some valuable experience. Again I need to look at my boots, and find some answers as this just can’t happen again.