A drive in darkness up to the Lake District is one of the down sides to a good long day trip out in November, but 6.30am Saturday morning my rucksack was packed, car boot full and I was away M6 bound.
With little traffic on the road my old reliable Kia had no trouble eating up the road and just under two hours later I was pulling up at a planned free parking spot in Troutbeck close to the church, right on time.
With little traffic on the road my old reliable Kia had no trouble eating up the road and just under two hours later I was pulling up at a planned free parking spot in Troutbeck close to the church, right on time.
The route I was taking was Sour Howes via the Garburn Pass, Sallows and Troutbeck Tongue, and perhaps Baystones, which would be about 10 miles.
The weather forecast was for a couple of showers early in the day then a bright afternoon. So as I left the car to the sound of an early morning cockerels chorus from a nearby farm I expected the rain not to be very far away, but in fact it never came.
Looking back down the route leading to 'The Howe' with the sound of cockerels filling the fresh morning air.
I have got to say, these fells did not inspire me reading the notes from Wainwright's guide book, he didn't spend too long on them and wasn't impressed, but I want to explore all areas of the Lakes and experience them for myself, but I really wasn't overly excited about the day in front as I normally am.
The climb up the stoney Garburn Pass is a gentle one to start with, fine views across the Troutbeck valley soon open up.
But then leaving the pass bridleway to then climb the grassy side of Sour Howes becomes a little steep and today it was slippery in the damp conditions.
The full height of the fell is soon gained, but there are a number of lumps and humps on top, which at first glance looks like any one of them could be the summit.
But following a rough path between the grass humps brings you to one with a very small pile of rocks, and having checked my GPS altimeter reading of 483m I was happy I was on top of the true summit of Sour Howes. I think for me, there's a bit of a purest trying to get out, as getting roughly to the top of a fell will just not do. I have a need to be on the top.
looking out to the west, the Coniston and Langdale fells from the slightly confusing Sour Howes summit
The views from this fell open up nicely to the south and west especially, almost the whole of Windermere's length can be seen, Coniston and parts of the Scafell and Langdale fells are on show as well. And to the east Kentmere.
However to the north east the skyline is dominated by the three large peaks of Yoke, Ill Bell, and Froswick neatly in a row.
View of Windermere from Sour Howes
My route ahead in the foreground over Moor Head to Sallows over to the right. And part of the Kentmere Horseshoe peaks dominating with Yoke, Ill Bell and Froswick centre.
But why Alfred Wainwright put this fell in his list and not the nearby Wansfell Pike, which in my opinion has better views is beyond me.
It was only when I left the hill heading down to the Garburn Pass that I actually met another walker. A pleasant local lady in her late 70's who was on her third round of Wainwright's. I guess you wouldn't be up here if you weren't doing them. We chatted for a few minutes, and I enquired about a quicker route down to Troutbeck Tongue. She wasn't totally sure of a safe route, and so I wished her fair well before parting.......I said PARTING!!!
I'd made such good time, I was considering taking on Baystones at this point as well as Troutbeck Tongue, I just needed to find that shortcut down.
Looking down the Garburn Pass towards Troutbeck and Windermere
view across the Troutbeck valley
Back on the pass which would take me back towards Troutbeck village, but not where I wanted to be going.
I was looking for a route down to Hagg Gill but no path or easy route down could be seen and I didn't fancy fighting my way through thick bracken, nor was I confident of the terrain and sometimes these 'shortcuts' can take longer than an established path in the end. The wind had dropped, the sun was in and out of the patchy cloudy sky but it was beginning to look like a pleasant afternoon as I passed a few people on the now busy path.
I was looking for a route down to Hagg Gill but no path or easy route down could be seen and I didn't fancy fighting my way through thick bracken, nor was I confident of the terrain and sometimes these 'shortcuts' can take longer than an established path in the end. The wind had dropped, the sun was in and out of the patchy cloudy sky but it was beginning to look like a pleasant afternoon as I passed a few people on the now busy path.
As the path descended, I did manage to spot a way down to the bridleway below, but I had backtracked such a long way, it must have added a good couple of miles or more to the route.
So off path, I dropped down the steep hillside to the valley floor.
So off path, I dropped down the steep hillside to the valley floor.
view of Troutbeck Tongue from the Garburn Pass. This is where I dropped down leaving the path
Back on the valley floor, it was a long flat and muddy walk towards Troutbeck Tongue passing through a sheep farm on the bridleway I eventually arrived at the foot of said fell.
Not every corner turned in the Lakes is a picture of beauty, but that's a working farm for you
Troutbeck Tongue looking a little steeper as I approch
To be honest, I felt pretty weary at this point, and found a nice little spot by Hagg Gill to grab a bite to eat and a drink. It was very relaxing listening to the water rushing by while I sat on a large rock.
It was at this point, I decided Baystones wouldn't happen today, it had taken too long to backtrack from the Garburn Pass and too many miles. I would just settle for this third fell today.
Having renewed my energy levels, I took the direct route up from the south, but although this fell is only 364m in height, that climb is steep almost all the way up, with muddy wet grass that tends to make you slip constantly, it was a short but sharp climb.
About halfway up, I got chatting to two guys coming down the fell, who were just starting out on their Wainwright journey, I would bump into them later in the pub as they were leaving.
My 108th fell was reached and a rewarding view down the valley of Troutbeck and a setting sun.
As I touched the pile of stones representing the cairn, I kind of fell over on them, knocking the top half of the stones over!!!
I then spent the next few minutes rebuilding it, oops, (roll eyes) nobody will ever know.
The rebuilt cairn of Troutbeck Tongue
Calling in at the 'Mortal Man' for that all important end of walk pint. Nice pub with a cracking view from the garden out back, but it was very quiet.
It only left me the short walk down to the church, and the beck beyond where the car was parked.
Thankfully I was staying overnight at the 'Millbeck B&B in Windermere overnight, so just a short drive and time to rest after what turned out to be an excellent day, harder than expected, but then they usually are.
