Gray Crag, Stony Cove Pike and Hartsop Dodd

I woke up on day two of my Lake District trip to the music of “First Light” on my mobile alarm at 6.30am. Staring at the underneath of an empty top bunk bed in the Helvellyn YHA. It was still dark out, but time to get up for another day on the fells and time to get my stiff legs moving.

My plan after yesterday’s 16 mile walk, was an easier one from the Brothers Water car park into Hartsop, which is just a couple of miles away from the hostel. I’d be following Pasture Beck through a glen, up to Threshthwaite Mouth, from here a walk to Gray Crag, returning to Threshthwaite Mouth, before a scramble onto Caudale Moor from the east ridge and onto the summit of ‘Stony Cove Pike’. Finally finishing the day on Hartsop Dodd, about 10 miles later.

Today's planned route

I needed to be finished by mid afternoon so I would miss the rush hour traffic back in the world of reality on the M60 and be home for a reasonable time. 

So I needed an early start, hence the 6.30am alarm.

Thankfully in the hostel bathroom, I had the two persons shower all to myself, and although it was lovely and hot, I really didn’t fancy any company, so it was a very quick shower. But while I was standing at the sink, brushing my teeth, now half dressed I might add, a lady, probably in her 60’s walked in and asked if she could use the shower? I think I might’ve put her off when I politely explained it was a double shower without a locking door and as this is a gents bathroom, a bloke could walk in on her..... she left quickly, although she looked strangely disappointed. 

With a clean change of clothes, my overnight bag packed, and feeling refreshed, I stripped the bedding and left it on the floor of my room as instructed by staff, I checked out, dropping my key that didn’t lock the bedroom door at reception and with a “many thanks” walked out into daylight. This hostel really is in an amazing location, one I couldn’t see last night on arrival, situated right by Glenridding Beck, with mountain views all around, a very peaceful place with a feel of isolation to it. 

I was keen to get an early start on this fresh chilly but clear beautiful October Monday morning.

And while most folk were heading out to work, I was trying my best to save my shock absorbers and my teeth while driving down that very bumpy lane from the hostel back into Glenridding.

As I drove through Glenridding, mist was rising from the waters of Ullswater, it was like something out of “Lord of the Rings” I should have stopped to take some photos of the small boats moored near the shore, but didn’t and regretted it instantly.

Apart from a camper van, the Brothers Water car park was empty as I pulled up to park. A voluntary donation box is on display here and I dropped £3 through the slot, before having some breakfast.

Having Crohn’s Disease doesn’t get in the way of hill walking much for me, I am very fortunate, however, precautions are needed, and the urge for the loo halfway up a mountain isn’t desirable. So the full English breakfast is left for another day at let’s just say a more convenient time. While I stick to a safe bet with Weetabix with milk and a banana from the cool box out of the boot of my car.

Just then, a couple parked up next to me and all three of us went through our pre walk preparations, you know like changing into boots, packing or restocking rucksacks with food, checking route etc. 

I was carrying much less today, waterproof pants, camera and gloves were left behind, just 1 Ltr of water and a couple of jam sandwiches. I poured fresh bottled water into my empty drinking bladder, I think bottled water tastes better through the tube rather than tap water, I reset my GPS and I was ready for the off.

The couple walked passed me heading by Brothers Water stopping only to comment on such a lovely day and to wish me an enjoyable walk.

I left the car at 8.45am for the short walk into the village of Hartsop, stopping to take a photo of a scenic view that caught my eye. The village was quiet as I passed through, walking through a carpark, which I didn’t know about until I found myself passing through it, over the bridge of Pasture Beck, turning left, in a southeasterly direction.

Looking south from Brothers Water, the northwest ridge of Caudale Moor (left) High Hartsop Dodd (right) and Middle Dodd (centre)

Sometimes on the Wainwright journey we tend to head up onto the fells at the first opportunity, missing out on some low-lying areas and in particular the quiet valleys.

Today I wanted to explore the steep sided valley of Threshthwaite Glen following “Pasture Beck”

I was still feeling the effects of the previous days walk, and to be honest, kept an open mind on just how far I’d walk today.

Hartsop Dodd looked steep, but Gray Crag looked formidable, the sheer steep side of this fell soared high above me, as I entered the valley, the towering peak sat in sunshine, and made me feel tired just looking at it, and the thought of climbing it’s height as I started to get into the valley was off putting.

The Glen itself was fascinating, the floor was in shade and covered in a light frost. Apart from the sound of running water from the beck, it was silent. 

But I was surprised to discover a well established stone path making the walking easy. Apparently Charolais/Limousin cows live in the valley during the summer months and can be aggressive, as much of their time during the winter is spent in cattle sheds away from the public, so thankfully no cows were in sight today as there’s only two directions to run in.

As I looked back down the Valley, the village of Hartsop was now out of sight and “Brock Crags” dominated this view, the whole surroundings gave a sense of real remoteness, as I moved further into the valley.

Threshthwaite Glen

A frosty start to the day

Beautiful red and orange fungi grows sporadically just off the path here, although it was a bright sunny day beyond the valley, in here the shade was deep and I could imagine on an overcast day, light would be sparing, making for dull and damp conditions. And damp it certainly was, with lots of water courses running off the fell sides as I moved along the valley, if it hadn’t been for the stone path, my feet would be soaked as my Mammut summer boots were now wetting out, so the streams needed a bit of careful negotiating in order to keep my feet dry.

Approaching Raven Crag

A good path makes the walking easy

Looking at “Threshthwaite Cove” which is at the head of the valley, as I got halfway along, I tried to spot my exit route up to the col at Threshthwaite Mouth which lies between Caudale Moor and Thornthwaite Crag. I couldn’t see a route up and it looked steep, “this could be interesting” I thought.

At the foot of Raven Crag, a boulder field lay over the path. The boulders were the size of cars and bigger. It looked to me as though at least some of the rocks had come away from the crag long after the path had been established as some of the rocks seem to sit on the path itself.

The rocks were easily negotiated as the path snaked through them and I continued walking towards the head of the valley.

The boulder field below 'Raven Crag'

As I got up close to the cove, the route up finally revealed itself to me, and again, pleasantly surprised to see that the stone path continued in the form of steps. But it was steep.

I set a target of counting 200 steps before stopping to look back at the view and catching my breath. Then continued for another 200 steps and so on until I made it onto level ground at Threshthwaite Mouth and into the warmth of sunshine, which was nice after being in cool shade for most of the morning.

The steep stepped climb out of  'Threshthwaite Cove'

Having made it to this point, I was definitely going on to visit all three peaks. I felt okay and it was only 11.00am.

From Threshthwaite Mouth, excellent views down to Troutbeck and Windermere could be seen and Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke all part of the western side of the Kentmere Horseshoe were on show. To the west, was a steep scramble up the east ridge of Caudale Moor, but that would be later.

A great view of the western side of the Kentmere Horseshoe's 'Yoke' 'Ill Bell' and Froswick

Looking east and my continuing route, there was a rough steep path following a broken wall which should lead to Thornthwaite Crag, but unfortunately for me, following this route would have made an unnecessary steep and hard climb and gain unnecessary height to get to the ridge path that would take me to Gray Crag.

So instead I chose to cross the pathless moorland tops of Gray Crags, following a sheep trail which quickly disappeared into long grass as I crossed the fell on a gentle ascent. 

Not easy walking on uneven ground with long grass and marsh, it’s the sort of terrain that pushes your ankles over every now and then, but eventually I joined the easy ridge path connecting Thornthwaite Crag with Gray Crag.

Looking back at the col of Threshthwaite Mouth and the scramble up the east ridge of Caudale Moor to the right. Windermere can be seen in the distance.

Difficult ground to cover

Pasture Beck below Gray Crag 

I finally made it to my first Wainwright summit of the day after covering about 4.5 miles.

Gray Crag stands at 699m, and after taking in its panoramic views, I began retracing my route leaving the path to Thornthwaite Crag pretty much at the same spot I’d joined it earlier. Again crossing the rough undulating ground aiming for Threshthwaite Mouth.

Gray Crag summit and views east 'Rest Dodd' and 'The Knott' along with 'Rampgill Head'

This was about the first time I’d been in descent all day and suddenly I felt some discomfort in my right knee, so before it got any worse, and as a precaution, I stopped, and after removing both boots, opened up my first aid kit, sprayed each knee with a cold muscle spray, slipped on a knee support on each leg. Swallowed a couple of “Paracetamol” tablets and then slipped my boots back on again before continuing onwards. And that seemed to do the trick.

The East ridge of Caudale Moor

I was back at Threshthwaite Mouth just after midday. Here, I could have chosen to head down into the valley again, but the knee didn’t seem too bad, so having put my walking poles away on the back of my rucksack, I made the easy scramble by a broken wall up onto Caudale Moor. The top of this fell is a broad flat moorland with a number of walls crossing the top.

A good path leads to the cairn summit of ‘Stony Cove Pike’. From here excellent views in all directions were enjoyed in the early afternoon sunshine.

 'Stony Cove Pike' summit, from here the 14 foot summit beacon of Thornthwaite Crag can be seen. Beyond to the left 'High Street'

Several paths lead away from the cairn, and although I was heading north in clear weather, it wasn’t completely clear I had chosen the right path until I passed over a broken wall. From here it was clear to see I’d be following a wall all the way to Hartsop Dodd.

View North following the wall and my final fell of the walk ahead 'Hartsop Dodd'

It was easy walking now, following the wall and the views out to the west were stunning. Much of yesterday’s walk were visible, St Sunday Crag, Dollywaggon Pike Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn, but the Northwestern ridge of Caudale dominated the foreground, and looked a fine route to incorporate in a future walk.

Looking West at much of yesterdays walking area 'St Sunday Crag' 'Fairfield', 'Dollywaggon Pike'  'Nethermost Pike' 'Helvellyn' and even 'Catstye Cam' were on show

I finally sat down for a short break after passing a token cairn on Hartsop Dodd. I have got to say it was one of the nicest spots I have ever sat in, and certainly was the most enjoyable jam sandwich I've ever eaten.

Looking out over green fields and the village of Hartsop in miniature, all bathed in sunshine. Peaceful, calming, and so memorable.

What a spot for a picnic

An excellent two days walking was coming to an end, I just had the very steep descent off the fell to negotiate. The path down is grooved, and zigzags, making it a little easier, but it is extremely steep. My knee started to feel uncomfortable during the descent and it was a relief to get down and on the flat of the village.

Looking back at Hartsop Dodd from the village

I just had the short road walk back to the car, arriving back at 2.45pm. The walk covered 11.35 miles and about 2,800ft of ascent and of course three more Wainwright summits taking me to 125.

A final look back at Gray Crag (left) and Hartsop Dodd

I didn’t manage to avoid the rush hour traffic around Manchester, but that’s a small price to pay for such a great day. And the knee was fine next day.

The stats

Returning to the Helvellyn massif

I was returning to Helvellyn today for only the second time. It’s where my passion for the Lake District all started, traversing “Striding Edge” with a work colleague six years earlier. From then on, I wanted to go on and explore every corner of this beautiful national park, I’m getting there...........but slowly.

This route I’d planned today would be ambitious for me, nine summits in about 12 tough miles. 

I’d be setting out from Patterdale, heading up to Anison Crag, then onto Birks followed by  St Sunday Crag, crossing Deepdale Hause, bypassing Cofa Pike and skirting Grisedale Tarn before climbing Seat Sandal. From here a climb onto the Helvellyn range, first stop being Dollywaggon Pike, then Nethermost Pike, before finally reaching Helvellyn itself.

After the tricky down scramble of Swirral Edge, I’ll nip up to Catstye Cam and head down to Patterdale via Birkhouse Moor.

An epic day ahead.

The intended route

In the days leading up to my trip, Saturdays weather forecast was terrible with high winds and rain. Sunday was a gloomy start with early morning rain forecast, but brighter in the afternoon. So at the last minute, I booked overnight accommodation at the Helvellyn YHA for Sunday evening and booked a day off work for Monday.

This would allow me to walk the better albeit wet start to Sunday, stay over and get another hike in on Monday.

As first light broke at a little after 7am Sunday morning on the M6, I could see the cloud base seemed high, certainly didn’t look like rain. Traffic was light and I was making good time. I was out of bed at 5am and away from home before 6am hoping to get an 8.30am start allowing plenty of time to achieve the goals of the day before nightfall.

All was going to plan until I approached junction 36 on the M6 where I was met with a road closure sign for the A591. “Surly not my route”  I thought as I exited the motorway, but sure enough I was forced off the carriageway of the A590 by a line of traffic cones at Sizergh onto a roundabout. “Bloody hell!!!” 

I have no knowledge of this area, only the route into the Lake District. With no diversion signs to help, my gut instinct told me left off the roundabout, and head southwest.

The road closure was due to flooding I think, and for the next hour of driving I would experience such flooded roads as I made my way along the A5074 into Bowness-on-Windermere, before heading over Kirkstone Pass arriving in Patterdale half an hour later than planned.

It was no big deal, I had all day and I wasn’t driving home after the walk thank goodness. So I parked in the decent sized Patterdale Hotel car park which is just across the road from the hotel, paying £4.50 for the day.

My rucksack was heavy today, although 8 Celsius by the Lake, temperatures on the summits could go down to 3C with the possibility of sleet the forecast stated, so I was carrying hat, gloves, waterproof pants, survival bag, 2Ltrs of water plus bottle of orange juice, food for the day, a few bits and bobs plus my dslr camera.

The start of the walk took me past the “White Lion” pub in a very quiet Patterdale just before 9am. turning right, up a lane by the pub car park passed a row of properties and onto a woodland path towards Glenamara Park. Easy going to start with, which is always nice with cold and stiff leg muscles after the drive and carrying a heavy rucksack. The weather looked promising and currently dry, feeling quite warm. 

The month of October sees the bracken brown with contrasting green grasses lining the route and fantastic autumnal rich colours on the fell sides. 

The path soon peels away left by a wall which borders Glenamara Park and climbs steeply away, towards “Oxford Crag” 

Glenamara Park beyond the gate and the path left following the wall

The path follows the wall passed "Oxford Crag"

Looking back, views of Ullswater could be seen and the sound of voices through a megaphone were heard in the still air from the direction of the lake. I wondered if a fell race was being organised. With selfish thoughts I was hoping not, I was enjoying the peace and tranquillity of the fells which up to now, I’d had all to myself having not seen another walker since my start in Patterdale.

I soon arrived at the rocky outcrop of Anison Crag standing at a modest 433m, it has a fantastic view point of Ullswater and Glenridding, and although this point is lower than the surrounding fells, the views it affords of Place Fell, Angle Tarn Pikes, High Raise, and High Street in the East are still good. I also had a good look at tomorrows walk on Hartsop Dodd, Gray Crags and Stoney Cove Pike. And to the south the gentle ascending ridge of “Hartsop above How”  I wanted to capture it all, getting my camera out of the pack I started to play around with it on manual for far too long, trying to achieve a good shot without real success. With a damp feel in the air, I finally put the camera away, realising I had a long way to go and it was almost 10am. I swallowed a couple of jelly babies and had a much needed pee behind a rock before marching on towards “Birks” 

The summit of Anison Crag

I made my way across the bumpy grass tops rounding “Trough Head” then followed a broken wall up a steep rough path strewn with rocks to the grassy summit of “Birks” 

The view of Ullswater while rounding "Trough Head"

The path up to the summit of "Birks"

Here, the previous days rainfall was evident in the White waters flowing off of the fells of “Birkhouse Moor” to the north and off “Hartsop above How” into “Deepdale Beck” to the south, but thankfully the rain was holding off so far today. From here on “Birks” I could see the skyline had an uncertain look about it. Low clouds loomed in the east of the park but today’s weather would be coming in from the west, which looked brighter, the odd low floating cloud drifted below distant summits, But I felt it could rain any time soon so I left my soft shell jacket on, and the camera stayed in the pack.

The view from "Birks" summit shows from left to right, Nethermost Pike, Striding Edge, Catstye Cam popping up in the centre and Birkhouse Moor to the right.

Views north show Glenridding Dodd (left) separated from Place Fell (right) by Ullswater

Apart from the views, the summit of Birks itself is pretty dull, with just a very small cairn marking the summit, which is surrounded by some pretty flat grassy fell top.

My stay here was brief, wanting to make some time up, I’m not a fast walker, and I like to enjoy the surrounding views by stopping every few minutes whether I need a breather or not, just to take in the view, but I didn’t want to find myself pushed for daylight later in the day.

View southwest from Birks, looking at my route up St Sunday Crag

Herdwick lambs are so cute

After leaving the summit of Birks, two older guys I presumed to be father and son I think, caught me up as I took a breather before the climb up onto St Sunday Crag. We had a quick chat about yesterday’s weather, they told me how bad it had been while they were on Sheffield Pike, with wind and rain and decided to have an early pint in Glenridding . 
That news made me feel I’d made the right call, delaying my walk until today. These guys were heading to Fairfield with one very light rucksack between them. I felt I had a small child on my back in comparison as I slid it off my back for a quick snack and a swig of fresh orange juice from a side pocket. I had water in my drinks bladder, which is fine while walking, but it’s nice to have something tastier with food, without sucking from a tube. 
It was a 240m climb from here to the summit, so with the small child back on my back, I made the slow climb up onto St Sunday Crag. By the time I reached the twin cairn summit at 841m the two guys ahead of me were out of sight and once again I had the fells to myself.

Guided by the cairns the summit nears

Views northeast from St Sunday Crag

The two cairns mark St Sunday Crag summit

From here I could see almost all the days route as I looked along the ridge of Deepdale Hause, I thought “wow”, this would be a big test. You can look at the contours of a map for as long as you like, but nothing beats looking at the mountains in situ to make you realise what effort will be required to finish a walk. I could see from Birkhouse Moor “Striding Edge” Helvellyn, Nethermost and Dollywaggon Pikes, I could even see Catstye Cam popping up on the skyline. In front of me was Fairfield and Grizedale Tarn and beyond those, my next goal, Seat Sandal.

Similar view from "Birks" northwest but now Helvellyn summit can be seen 

Cofa Pike looked an interesting route up to Fairfield from the Hause but having done the Horseshoe route, Fairfield wouldn’t play a part today, not that I didn’t have enough to go at!!!

As I walked the excellent Deepdale Hause, stunning views of the craggy northeast side of Fairfield, Black Buttress, Hutaple Crag, Black Tippet and “The Step” down to Greenhow End could all be seen, but my eyes were drawn to Dollywaggon Pike and that pretty stiff climb which was to follow. Below the pike was the clear path following Grisedale Beck back down to Patterdale and this was my bailout route should I need to take it.

Fairfield and the "The Step" a tongue off the craggy east side 

Looking west, Fairfield (left) Dollywaggon Pike (right) and Seat Sandal (centre)

Grisedale Tarn comes into view and Cofa Pike to the left with Seat Sandal beyond

Just then a springer spaniel ran passed me with one of those mountain dog harnesses on, and I immediately looked around to see a young woman running towards me. With a nod and a smile she was passed me running down the steep path to Grisedale tarn.

It always amazes me just how fit some people are, and especially fell runners, they are just a different breed. the dedication needed to maintain that level of fitness is astonishing. She was clearly carrying just the basics water etc as she only had a tiny bumbag ........

The steep path off Deepdale Hause down to the tarn

Clouds forming over Helvellyn

I finally came across one of the major water flows running off Fairfield which the fell runner made look easy. Aided by my walking poles made the crossing without a slip.

As I approached Seat Sandal, predictably the routes off Fairfield were busy with groups of walkers and here at the junction called Grisedale Hause most walkers were passing through on their way up from Tongue Gill or dropping back down the route to the A591 below from Fairfield, or heading for the zigzag path onto Dollywaggon Pike.

My climb up Seat Sandal

The climb up Seat Sandal from here was steep scrambling scree, short energy sapping climbing. I was the only one doing it. I put my poles away for the climb so I could use my hands. A number of slips and breathers later, surprisingly I soon gained the summit at about 1.15pm where I joined an elderly couple at the stone cairn, they had made the climb from ‘Dunmail Raise’. A lovely couple and very pleasant.

We had a chat for a few minutes as they asked where I had walked from and going to. They seemed surprised to hear I’d set off from Patterdale.

I left them admiring the now excellent views west. The Old Man of Coniston, Langdales and Scafell Pike were on view with sunshine spraying them in patches as the cloud broke. Further north west the Central Fells, all looking stunning in a panoramic scene as the blue sky started to dominate. A stark contrast to my route onto Helvellyn as the peaks of this mountain range were in cloud.

Looking back at St Sunday Crag (centre) and to the right, Fairfield now in cloud

With poles back out I crossed a broken wall then followed it down off Seat Sandal heading north back down towards the tarn, and at this point, I should have gone around the tarn and joined the easier zigzag route up Dollywaggon Pike, but instead having crossed the boggy depression, I took the shorter direct approach following a broken wall, not really a path but it had occasional boot divots amongst the stones in the hillside.

 Following the wall off Seat Sandal with  Dollywaggon Pike ahead

The foot of Dollywaggon Pike and the route I took by the wall on the left

Admiring the views out west to the Central Fells while catching my breath

I knew if I could climb this fell I would gain another four summits very easily with very little climbing for the rest of the day with the promise of fabulous scenery. And while I dug deep on this killer steep climb the clouds just started to dissipate and the sun shone through, like the gods were saying well done feller here’s your reward. My jacket came off at this point and was stuffed into the rucksack, But the climb was still a sweaty effort. By the time I reached a very ornate post marking a crossroads I was extremely hot and sweaty, unlike most of the folks on this main highway, both casual and serious walkers, couples holding hands and some without a bag between them, families and groups. All passed from left to right, and right to left. No one was heading straight on. But straight on was Dollywaggon Pike summit, and I continued across, having recovered from that killer climb with a small child on my back named Osprey Talon.

When I finally arrived at the grassy dome of the 858m summit I was wanting a sit down for a rest but a couple were kissing and just generally loitering around the cairns making me feel uncomfortable, one small one, the cairns that is, not the couple, and a larger cairn to the West mark the summit.

Dollywaggon Pike summit, looking West, and wow what a day I was now having

Looking East Birkhouse Moor (left) Place Fell (centre) St Sunday Crag (right)

Looking beyond St Sunday Crag to Gray Crag Hartsop Dodd and High Street

The views I had were magnificent, and I felt rewarded for the effort to get here, I could have so easily have been following Grisedale tarn far below me now back to Patterdale. 

I stuck around for a few minutes and the couple eventually strolled off in the direction of ‘High Crag’ so I parked my backside down for a well earned rest, tucking into a ham and egg sandwich, a packet of crisps and a banana, facing High Crag, while finishing off the orange juice in the warm sunshine. “SLEET!!!” I thought, how wrong was today’s forecast. There I was with waterproof pants, hat gloves and the kitchen sink, I was sunbathing, but you can never predict the weather all the time.

The picnic

High Crag and Nethermost Pike

Bagging the empty packet of crisps and the banana skin before packing them into my dry bag. It was 2.20pm and I’d covered about 6 miles. I’d reached five summits with four more to visit, so my seat matt was folded away and feeling the energy levels rising again I headed north, joining the many on a well established track.

I stayed on the main trail bypassing High Crag, but then peeled off across a wide expanse of almost flat ground to reach the cairn marking “Nethermost Pike” in a grassy field of rocks.

A brief stop for a photo and my march continued aware that time was ticking by, it was 3.15pm I still had about 6 or 7 miles to cover with about 3 hours of daylight left, as I said I’m not a fast walker.

Nethermost Pike summit at 891m

View of Striding Edge and Grisedale Beck below from Nethermost Pike

Helvellyn ahead, Striding Edge to the right and Catstye Cam beyond

It’s a long gentle climb to Helvellyn, almost a stroll in the park over the broad grass top. I passed the commemorative plaque to John Leeming and Bert Hinkler who landed an Avro 585 Gosport aeroplane in 1926 on this very spot, funnily enough the plane flew from Woodford in Cheshire, which is about a ten minute drive from my home.

The commemorative plaque

Looking back South to Nethermost Pike from Helvellyn

Helvellyn summit shelter ahead

I looked on at “Striding Edge” with fond memories of Andy and myself crossing this brilliant ridge, and thought to myself I must do it again soon.

I passed the busy summit shelter and went to the trig point, the only one on today’s route. Again views all afternoon were outstanding and Helvellyn has some of the best although views opened up to the north, I could see Blencathra and the surrounding fells still had cloud formations over their tops.

Helvellyn trig point and to the right my descent route on Swirral Edge

Leaving Helvellyn’s summit passing two lads with a drone, I packed my walking poles away on the back of my rucksack again and made my descent down Swirral Edge, care is needed on this down climb, a stumble here could be serious, easily done with tired legs, hands are needed so slow and steady I made my way down, it was trickier than I remembered from my last visit. 

The view looking down Swirral Edge at Catstye Cam

Looking back up Swirral Edge

Red Tarn and Striding Edge

But safely down I was soon at the climb for Catstye Cam where poles came out again.

While making this climb I heard the humming of that drone over head, flying over Catstye Cam before returning to the Helvellyn summit. You never know, I might have been filmed climbing the little peak.

The sun was getting low as I made the summit of Catstye Cam. Again a brief stop was made here.

 The cairn on Catstye Cam offering views of Birkhouse Moor and Sheffield Pike

I had spotted the dam at the foot of “Keppel Cove” far below and wanted to get a better photo, and without thinking or more to the point checking the map, I headed off the summit east. I got a shot of the dam and continued down hill, soon realising this would put me on the wrong path for “Birkhouse Moor” to cut across wasn’t an option as it was marshy ground. I should have returned back the same way I climbed the fell and rejoined the Swirral Edge route down, but it was too late, I’d dropped down too far to return.

That dam

As I dropped down off Catstye Cam my returning path just got lower and lower, I was a little bit annoyed with myself for the simple error, I’d had very little navigation to do all day as my route was pretty obvious and I got careless. I was annoyed because I’d covered about ten hard miles, in reality I had another 6 miles to walk and I had tired legs, light was fading but I WAS going to Birkhouse Moor even if it meant with a bloody head torch on!!!

Okay, calm down John.......remember you do it for pleasure. I finally dropped back onto the path by “Red Tarn Beck” and reluctantly started the short climb back up to the tarn itself, crossing the water and following a couple who’d just descended “Swirral Edge” they must have wondered where I had come from, but I was now back on track. 

cloud forming over Helvellyn gives it an atmospheric feel

The sun was setting behind me as I followed the path to the wall and a stile. The couple ahead of me disappeared over the stile heading down. I then followed the wall along the easy flat grassy path to the cairn which marks the highest spot for Birkhouse Moor, however, I spotted a large cairn a little further away. So just to be sure I was at the highest point I went to this one as well. 

The setting sun on Birkhouse Moor, not the official cairn, but takes a better photo than the highest point which is by the wall. 

The sky was pink over Ullswater as the setting sun brought the end of what had been a fantastic mountain day, excellent views could be seen down into Glenridding as I noticed street lights were now on, I could see cars with headlights on. It was well and truly dusk, all I needed to do was get down to Patterdale.

I returned to the cairn by the wall, and followed the wall down to a point were a path branched off over the wall to the right. The path I was on led to Glenridding so I needed this branching path which joins up with one from the “Hole-in-the-Wall” that would take me back to Patterdale.

Following the wall down from Birkhouse Moor looking for that right turn

My photo of the day

Moons out over St Sunday Crag

Having crossed the wall. The path was faint, I followed it for a time and this path just became brushed flattened grass, barely a path at all. Certainly not used frequently. I had no chance of following this with a head torch in the dark and my heart rate started to rise, I needed to pick up that path somewhere below me while I could still see. With no choice but to continue while scanning the hillside below me for signs of that path.

Suddenly I spotted a patch of sand coloured stone below, that’s the path. The choice was risk following the route I was on in the dark, or cut down through the thick bracken while i had some dim light as it looked reachable.

So I came off the path I was on and dropped through the bracken with a few slips here and there I made it onto the main path with some relief, as it was now pretty dark.

Head torch went on and a little red flashing doggy light clipped to the slightly lighter child named Asprey Tallon, due to the lack of food and water making it lighter. I had a lane to walk back into Patterdale and I’m sure the drivers of the three vehicles that passed me appreciated the fact I played my part in not getting run over.

I followed the lower section of the “Hole-in-the-wall path down in the dark by torch, crossing the bridge over Grisedale Beck and down the said lane, coming out opposite Grisedale Lodge, leaving just the short walk back along the A592.

I arrived back in Patterdale at 7pm just under 16 miles later, with eight new Wainwright summits now totalling 122 with 92 left to climb, I was damn pleased with myself.

Almost down

Having dumped my gear at my dew covered car, I had fish and chips over a pint of “Moretti” larger in the “White Lion” pub, they didn’t have any steak and ale pie left, which I was hopping for. 

The pub was quiet as you’d expect on a Sunday night, all but for a couple of ladies talking about their experience on the “Camino de Santiago” walk, but the pub was decorated very nicely for Halloween.

Now that was a well earned pint

Indeed

I didn’t dare have another drink, I allow only the one while driving and I had to get halfway back up a mountain.

Helvellyn YHA is in the middle of nowhere. Well actually it’s just below Sheffield Pike and Birkhouse Moor, had I not needed the car I could have walked there, anyway it’s on the bumpiest single track road I’ve ever been on. £21 for the night, £70 for new shock absorbers? I say with a smile. You just need to drive slowly. I just didn’t want to meet anyone coming towards me, as there are few passing places.

When I finally got there, I turned the car headlights out and I have never seen darkness like it. Looking up, the stars were amazing to see, but as stunning as they were, my bed was calling.

That road up to Helvellyn YHA

A short walk from the car park with my head torch on and the comfort of lights could be seen. And I clambered down the path with my overnight bag. A row of boots rested by the doorway. A proper old hostel, full of character, in a good way.

“John is it?” The reception manager asked, and I quickly checked in showing my drivers license. the place just like the pub was dead except for a few more senior ladies.

This hostel is in an amazing location

It wasn’t long before I was in my private room and in my bottom bunk bed and out for the count. Zzzzzz