Y Garn Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach

My first ever experience of a weekend stay in a hostel was about to happen, I was meeting up with a dozen walkers, to explore some of the beauty of Snowdonia over two days.
The Saturday walk had already been decided. This would be a walk from our accommodation, straight up the peak of Y Garn at 947m and then onto Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach.

Saturday's route

The only guy I’d walked a number of times with was Shaun, but unfortunately he couldn’t make the weekend at the last minute due to a house move. I had met about half the group briefly on different walks but didn’t really know any of them.

We were staying in the Yr Hafod activity centre in the heart of the Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia, Wales. 
Ruth was the organiser and she had arranged the booking for our “Walking forum” group exclusively from Friday to Sunday with all of us paying an equal share of the cost to Ruth before hand. The centre isn’t staffed, so the group were responsible for the building during our stay.

Friday evening

I headed to Wales late Friday afternoon feeling a little nervous. I’d never done anything like this before and I was definitely out of my comfort zone. 

When I arrived at the slightly remote centre after a two hour drive, I'd just parked up, and a cow just came walking through the car park all very casual like.

Once inside the centre a few guys were already there, and gathered in the main open planned communal room and kitchen. Which were full of conversations, laughing and plenty of banter could be heard around an extremely large dining table. 

Some of the group had extended the weekend by adding a walking day on the Friday and Deb’s was particularly pleased to have climbed Tryfan’s North Ridge, guided by the more experienced Nathan.

It was a very friendly atmosphere and clear a number of folk knew each other presumably from previous meetings. 

Most of the group had bagged their bunk beds for the weekend and unpacked food in the kitchen earlier.

I duly introduced myself to those of the group I’d not met before. And said a warm hi to those I had already met before.

After unpacking, I sat around the table taking the situation in and introducing myself to the last couple of arrivals.

We had all come together from all over the country. Deb’s and David were from London. Jon was from the southwest of England. Graeme from Stirling in Scotland and a number of the group from the Yorkshire area. Phil and Christine were from South Wales and local man Mark was from just down the road in Abergele North Wales.

The centre was pretty big, and it was able to accommodate twice our number, which meant we all got a bottom bunk bed.

Which is important when you need a pee in the night. Finding your way down one of those narrow little wooden ladders in the dark from a top bunk is a nightmare I was told.

There were a number of bedrooms so the two couples in the group Ruth and Graeme and Phil and Christine were to share a room while the males and females split between three other bedrooms. I opted to share a 12 bed dormitory with five other guys. Mark, Jon, David, Dom and Andy.

It wasn’t long before the conversation turned to food as the evening approached.

Most of the group opted to eat out at a pub down the road called the Tyn-y-coed, leaving just Nathan to stay in and cook his own meal at the centre by his own choice.

The Tyn-y-coed was just about the nearest place serving food and was about a 15 minute drive, but in this part of Snowdonia that’s just down the road.

The group basically filled a section of the pub as we pulled tables together and made it a good opportunity to open up conversations with each other.

I was starting to feel more at ease, and as I wasn’t driving having jumped into Graeme’s car, I had a couple of pints which helped loosen me up.

Although I didn’t have it, the sticky toffee pudding had rave reviews from those that had sampled the pubs favourite dessert.

Having eaten an excellent meal, we were soon heading back in the hostel for more drinks.

Yr Hafod Activity Centre

I’d brought a selection of cheeses and crackers which I thought would go down well, as the beer and wine continued to flow around that huge table......and it did go down well with the group.

Graeme and Phil were great storytellers, some true and only at the punch line did we find out some were jokes, you never knew which story was true until the end, but the two guys bounced off each other brilliantly and were very entertaining while the cheese and crackers were shared out, and quickly disappeared along with beer and wine.

Talking of sharing, Andy dished out ear plugs for us all. Did he know something we didn’t?

Mark was the first to turn in, and we all soon headed the same way, as once the bedroom lights go out, you’re relaying on your head torch to find your way around without waking everyone up, plus we had a big day ahead.

It had been a long day and once lights were out, and ear plugs fitted I didn’t need rocking. The ear plugs worked a treat, drowning out some of the inevitable snoring, however they did nothing for the “wind” in the room, so maybe a nose clip next time!!!

Saturday 

First to rise was Mark, it was daylight but about 5.30am!!!

and I soon learnt that this is a trait of Mark’s, he likes being early to bed, then up early and starts the day with a nice hot brew.

The group as a whole were up slowly and out of bed by 7:30am, eating or preparing breakfast. 

It was funny watching different people prepare for a hike.

Andy was busy taping up his feet in the bedroom. Some of the guys were in the communal room packing their rucksacks in a certain way, while I was in the kitchen putting my lunch together along with other guys. Equally Mark was making note that I was extremely organised, as I put my ingredients of salad together from my labelled up box with my name on from the fridge for my sandwich pack up. In my defence, we were asked by Ruth to label up our food before arriving with our names on. 

But it was a great opportunity to see what other walkers eat while out on the hills.

Nathan for example was just taking Waffles and a bottle of syrup of some kind, which seemed to be extremely easy, but not my kind of lunch.

I was also looking at kit and clothing and the choices people make during this prep time.

The days walk would start straight out of the hostel door from about 10.00am.

We were now joined by Mark’s son Craig in his midge head net. Our local man’s son volunteers for Ogwen Mountain Rescue Team, and the experienced young man just wanted to keep an eye on his old dad as this would be a stiff climb for Mark who’d had a hip replacement some years earlier.

I didn’t think the midges were too bad, but a net would’ve been handy in the valley.

with rucksack packed, I was ready early, and we seemed to be waiting around for a while before everyone finally assembled outside the centre.

In the car park, with rucksacks donned. Mel insisted we all pose for a group photo before we finally set out. I never did see that photo.

We would be heading for the summit of Y Garn to start with, standing at 3,107ft skirting the northern edge of the body of water called Llyn Idwal, before heading across to the highest point of the day standing just above 1000m Glyder Fawr at 3,284ft and finally Glyder Fach the third peak of the day.

It was good to finally be walking and back to a familiar feel, the pace at this point was very steady as the group stayed fairly close, as we all warmed up.

The weather this morning was overcast but thankfully dry. But the surrounding summits were all shrouded in mist. but at least It was mild, as you’d expect for June.

The group heading for Y Garn at the start of the walk

Jon pictured with a view of the "Devils Kitchen" route right of photo

Looking back at the body of water called Llyn Ogwen and a cloud covered Tryfan to the right of the photo as Phil, Andy and Deb's follow up behind me.

Phil, Christine and Andy leading Deb's and Ruth at the rear

  

from left to right, Mark and his son Craig having a chat with Nathan while the rest of the group catch up

The base of Y Garn

The group soon arrived at the point of the climb in earnest, this is now where the group started to open up a little having passed by a wall. As with any large walking group, there will be varying abilities of fitness, and our group was no exception. 

The younger lads, Nathan and Dom pushed on, some held back for a while, as we waited for one or two steadier walkers.

Ruth’s partner Graeme held back and stayed at the back to help and encourage the less speedier of the group, while myself and the majority of the group walked slowly up the lower sections of Y Garn. 
About halfway up, cloud cover meant we could no longer see the back markers. So we waited.

Myself and Andy below, looking back at our hostel and start point

The back markers of the group were now out of sight

As we were now in cloud, the temperature was much lower, and damp, and standing around too long wasn’t a good idea without layering up. So we continued up the mountain joining up with the rest of the group at the summit shelter.

From left to right, Dom, David, Christine, Andy and Phil in the foreground.

The summit shelter of Y Garn is a rounded low wall, still exposed to the elements but does provide a little shelter from the wind which at 3,107ft is needed. There, the group continued to wait and took the opportunity to eat some lunch as it was about 12.30pm.

Nathan tucking into his Waffles

Mark and his son Craig

Ruth came through the mist with word from Graeme. He was going to stay with Mel and cut their route to a shorter option and descend “Devils Kitchen” as Mel just wouldn’t be able to complete the route comfortably with the group.

At this point we hadn’t reached the 2 mile marker and time was potentially an issue.

So we agreed that was the best plan.

Unfortunately for Ruth, Graeme was carrying all her food in his rucksack, so we all chipped in with snacks for her as we now moved on in the clag in an effort to warm up again.

Descending the wide gentle grassy slope down to Llyn y Cwm, the group spread out a little on the slope losing sight of each other in the mist, but re grouped in the depression at the foot of the scree climb.

From here, it’s a scramble up steep scree, the views were almost none existent. It was slow going and seemed to take an age before the terrain levelled out a bit.

Jon tackling the scree

Andy having a breather on the way up to Glyder Fawr

Nathan and Dom checking out the views?

Eventually we arrived on the spiky rock summit of Glyder Fawr. 

Visibility was very poor, and I was pleased to have local walkers with us who knew the mountain, as the terrain was rugged, path less and potentially dangerous, with some huge drops to our north.

However, although I was carrying GPS plus map and compass, it was nice not to need to use them today, trusting the guys ahead of me.

I couldn’t see much of the spiky tops of Glyder Fawr, certainly no views out over the Ogwen Valley as we all negotiated the rocky terrain carefully.

Glyder Fawr

Jon getting chilly on Glyder Fawr

We were soon on Glyder Fach, and although we could just about make out part of the rocky spikes of Castell-y-Gwynt (Castle of the Wind) this is a rock formation of spiky rocks that look similar to a castle.

The full view was just not there for us today, but we soon came across the “Cantilever stone” where a couple of us climbed onto it, and as it was pretty quiet, no one waiting for a photo opportunity so thought it was a good place to sit and have lunch. That ham salad sandwich I made earlier was very nice along with a banana and Jaffa cakes.

During the days walking it was good to get to know a few of the Walking forum members face to face. I was really enjoying the day and the company, pace of the walk was very comfortable. I was pleased to find I was fitter than some of the group, so never felt under any pressure. That’s always a worry meeting a large walking group for the first time, but as I said, I had walked with a couple before today. so knew I could keep up with those guys, but I would never want to hold a group up as I did on the Carneddau in December 2012. 

We descended Glyder Fach eastward, picking up a path that would take us to the col between Tryfan and Bristly Ridge, the mist was so dense our navigating leaders got confused temporarily when a GPS was read upside down!!! ........oops

But it was just a momentary lapse of concentration soon corrected, and we crossed a wall by a stile.

Dropping below the cloud base heading east and the waters of Llyn Caseg-fraith ahead.

We made a left turn ahead

Approaching the col between Tryfan and Bristly Ridge

Phil and Christine descending the final mile, her legs felt like jelly she said.

It was a long steady descent and soon we dropped below the cloud base passing Liyn Bochlwyd heading for the A5 and arriving back at the hostel around 6pm.

In just under seven miles we had arrived back at the hostel, where Mel and Graeme were waiting, having had a shorter walk then ourselves.

After unpacking my pack, I joined the group getting showered and changed before heading back to the Tyn-y-coed pub for our evening meal. 

The pub was so busy we struggled to get our food orders taken by the staff and as joint organiser with Ruth, Graeme went around the group taking all our orders.

That brought a few laughs as he went around each table.

Drinks and cheese back at the hostel and a night of storytelling from some of the guys. 

For most of us, bed was calling before midnight, and a well earned sleep.

Great Dunn Fell

I was now only weeks away from my first hostel weekend and another opportunity to meet more walking forum members came up with a day meet up in the North Pennines.

I’d met Mark (Fat Goat) on the Yorkshire meet up in March. He had organised a walk up to Cross Fell and Great Dun Fell, which was about 12 miles.

I’d seen Great Dun Fell from the M6 before Penrith each time I drove to the Lakes. The fell stands out as it has a radar dome at it’s summit, it looks like a golf ball from a far. So it was a good opportunity to visit this summit, the radar dome and see the Lake District from a far distance over the Vale of Eden while building potential new friendships.

We arranged to meet in the tiny village of Kirkland. It was a beautiful June morning, the sun was out as I arrived although little early as I didn't want to be late.

The days planned route.

Also on the walk were Karl and Sue who I’d met in Yorkshire in March along with Mark. Unfortunately none of these people were going to the hostel meet, but a young guy called Colin was. 

Colin had just walked the Yorkshire 3 Peaks challenge the day before and was pretty tired, and quiet.

Once all five of us had arrived and booted to go, we set off down the lane only for Mark to drop his water bottle on the road.

The lid came off and he lost half his bottle contents before saving the remaining water.

We were soon on a gentle climb on a well established track, winding its way up Cross Fell skirting ‘High Cap’ and although it was a gentle climb, it was a long one, almost 4 miles to the summit.

A herd of cattle took an unhealthy interest in our group as we admired the stunning views of the Eden Valley

A good opportunity to sit, take a breather and gaze at the views.

Most of the group were fine in the ascent, but Mark struggled a little and a number of times found himself some distance behind, so plenty of stops to admire the views across the Eden Valley were made, and a chance for Mark to regroup.

Stunning views

Back at our start point in Kirkland, the weather was fine and warm, however as we gained height and the summit of Cross Fell became nearer, it did feel much fresher and with a low cloud base felt like it could rain at anytime. The wind had also increased so shell jackets went on.

Karl, Colin and Sue stop to put on jackets as the weather deteriorates 

Colin and Sue almost at Cross Fell summit

We were soon joining the Pennine Way up the final stretch to the summit of Cross Fell at 893 metres. Here we had a chance for the group to take shelter from the wind in an impressive construction and grab a bite to eat. Most of us pulled out a sandwich, but Mark produced the largest container of pasta I’ve seen.

Thankfully he only ate a portion of it, otherwise I think we would have been still at the summit at nightfall.

Cross Fell summit shelter

I set up my camera on the self timer while Karl, Mark, Sue and Colin lined up by the trig point. It was a real dash to get back and positioned before the shot......I didn’t make it.

I also managed to snap Colin at the side of the tallest cairn I’ve seen to date.

Note to myself, not quick enough!!!

Finally a half decent snap of the group. Mark, Karl, me, Sue and Colin

Now that's what you call a cairn

Leaving Cross Fell behind

We continued south east along the Pennine Way leaving Cross Fell summit behind. Our next waypoint was Little Dun Fell, just over an easy mile on the long distance path.

Passing Little Dun Fell was pretty uneventful, but the white dome of Great Dun Fell was in sight. It did seem to take an age to arrive at the radar, but eventually we did, and a quick look around the fenced off facility out of curiosity before the group sat down for a break.

We spent some time looking at the distant fells of the Lake District and trying to work out which fells were which.

The radar now on our radar

Up close and personal with the air traffic control system that helps keep the skies safe over Northern England and Southern Scotland

Sue working out Lake District Fells through wind swept hair while Karl looks on

From Great Dun Fell we backtracked over Little Dun Fell to a junction marked by a stone.

Mark was out of water at this point, and as I still had plenty of water left, I topped his bottle up. No time to stop now as the group headed down to Wildboar Scar

and returned to the village of Kirkland.

Back tracking the long path from Great Dun Fell to Little Dun Fell

The stone which indicates our left turning off the Pennine Way

A shot of both Little and Great Dun Fells

It was a pleasant day with no real challenges apart from getting a conversation out of Colin. Sue and Karl were excellent company and thanks go to Mark for the idea of walking this route. I’ve done it now and I doubt I’ll return for a second walk here for a long time. As I looked over from Great Dun Fells summit to the Lake District in the distance, I knew where my heart wanted to be.

But it was a nice change from where I'd been walking and a new area explored.

The Mosedale Horseshoe

The days route, Kirk Fell, Pillar, Steeple, Scoat Fell, Red Pike and finally Yewbarrow

This has got to be one of the best Horseshoe walks in the Lake District 

The rock fest has it all, from steep scree slopes, heart pumping scrambles, Boulder hopping, six Wainwright’s and some fantastic views if your lucky, oh and a tiny piece of flat grass!!! The scenery is stunning. But it is also a test of fitness and stamina.

It was just short of 10 miles, but mileage is almost  irrelevant with this route. It felt more like 20 miles.

I had suggested walking the Mosedale Horseshoe to Shaun, a friend of mine who was training for the Wainwright coast to coast for charity which was a couple of months away. 

He wanted a good test of his fitness and as I had read a little about this route, I put it forward, feeling it was as good a test as anything else in the Lakes.

Looking back at the Wasdale Head Inn from the foot of Kirk Fell

Shaun had driven up the previous evening from the east coast avoiding a long drive on the day of the walk, staying in a local YHA. I on the other hand was driving up on that morning straight from home.

We arranged to meet at 9.30am for a 10am start. I had to leave home at 6 am for the three and a half hour drive to Wasdale Head which isn’t the easiest place to drive to.

Shaun was a professional photographer sometime earlier in his career, but still had a passion for it, so he was in Wasdale early to grab some morning shots of a moody mountain scene. 

A damp looking Mosedale with Red Pike in cloud

I had planned the route, so when I arrived in the busy Wasdale car park (field) after saying hi, how you doing? The next question Shaun asked, looking up at Kirk Fell was. “We’re not going straight up there are we?” My reply was simply........."yeah".

Being early April, the air was cool, the cloud hung over the mountain summits, the wind was picking up and it was spitting with rain.

Kirk Fell towering above the Wasdale Head Inn

After a quick pee in the portaloo toilets and feeling undeterred by the weather conditions as the waterproofs went on, Shaun and I set off about 10ish and headed straight for the nose of Kirk Fell.

Shaun giving the thumbs up for the climb

The walk in from the car park passed the Wasdale Head Inn was a short one, so no time to warm up, briefly walking by the Mosedale Beck, we were soon on the lower slopes of Kirk Fell. The wind was picking up as we made our way up an initially grassy sloped path, and I knew the wind could be a problem higher up the fell.

Early in the climb we were joined by two guys and their dogs. 
They come for a week together camping every year, we found this out through regular chats on the hillside as we gained height

.

I’ve often found, it’s when you’re red-faced, and gasping for air, pretending to be just admiring the view on a hillside, you end up talking to strangers of a similar fitness level. And this was such an occasion.

The wind felt strong now and I almost lost my rucksacks rain cover in a gust while trying to remove it as the rain had stopped and my cover was acting like a sail, flapping in the wind as we gained height. But although it was windy, in just a matter of minutes the clouds started to lift off the peak summits and we started to see glimpses of sunshine trying to burst through the now broken cloud.

Over the next two hours, we would pass each other on the mountain, exchanging words while our heart rates came down on the now ever steepening scree. 

The scree line starts about two-thirds of the way up Kirk Fell and is notoriously difficult to advance on. 

For each stride up my boot made, it would slip back on the loose stone half the stride again, making the climb extremely taxing.

The two lads were telling us how they turned back during bad weather last time they were here, so when we finally reached the summit, we were all relieved.

The summit shelter was a out of the wind and sitting in it, we took the opportunity to refuel the body after one of the hardest climbs on a path in the Lake District.

The lads were soon gone, heading in a different direction to us, but then we were joined by a group of walkers from Scotland that had come from Great Gable and wanted a break from the wind.

Shaun and I chatted for too long, time was ticking on and we had a long way to go.

With my rucksack rain cover folded away again and photos taken, we were off.

Looking back at the Scottish group on Kirk Fell summit

Yewbarrow seen from Kirk Fell

Leaving the Scottish group behind, we followed the line of metal posts traversing the wide fell. These metal posts would put us in the right spot for the scramble down onto Black Sail Pass. The wind was dropping and the sun was out more than behind the clouds.

It was now 1.00pm and we hadn’t passed 2 miles yet!!!

The scramble off Kirk Fell was easy from the posts, but when we reached the bottom and looked back we thought;   bloody hell!!! Completely out of the wind it was actually warm, a beautiful day was developing.

Start of the descending scramble off Kirk Fell

On the scramble down Kirk Fell to Black Sail Pass

Looking down onto Black Sail Pass from Kirk Fell

 Another couple with a dog crossed our path. The chap asked what route we were taking, when I mentioned Yewbarrow he asked: ”are you going over Stirrup Crag?”

I'd planned the route but clearly overlooked Stirrup Crag. The guy gave us some tips on how to negotiate the Crag. 

Pillar was our next target, heading straight to the summit rather than taking the 

high-level route. Fantastic views down into the Ennerdale Valley and Black Sail Hut could be seen as we started to hop huge boulders near the top, the climb from the pass seemed to take forever, time was an issue and Shaun started to develop a cramp in his hamstrings. He assured me he would be fine, he’s had it before. But the day was clearly taking its toll and we were beginning to regret spending time on Kirk Fell.

taking a snap of the long climb up Pillar 

 A glimpse of Ennerdale Valley from Pillar

Looking back to Kirk Fell on the left of photo, The Scafell peaks centre

The trig point on Pillar

Wind Gap was always a bailout option if Shaun’s cramp became a problem.

We reached Pillar summit at about 3 pm but we'd only covered three and a half miles

This is where Shaun and I found the only spot of flat grass the whole day. And to mark the spot, Shaun laid down flat face down and kissed it, this is a hilly walk.

His cramp seemed to be improving, but the option of using Wind Gap as an exit down was still on offer.

We dropped down to wind Gap, and Shaun said he was happy to continue, assuring me he was fine. We then pushed on to the third fell of the day, Steeple.

A beautiful little fell, I say little but it towers over the Ennerdale Valley at 819m, but approaching from the south east it looks a delightful chocolate box of a Fell.

We were soon at the lofty summit admiring the views before moving on.

Steeple and it's stunning views

Shaun and I on Scoat Fell, the forth fell of the day

Scoat Fell and Red Pike next, Shaun and I were making good ground as we passed the 5 mile mark.

It was a long descent down to Dore Head, with Yewbarrow beyond and Shaun and I spent most of that time descending, looking at Stirrup Crag, weighing up the route we were advised to take by the couple earlier in the day.

You can’t always see these routes when you get too close to the fell. So it’s always a good idea to try and plan from a short distance away.

The winding path on the left leads to the right spot to tackle Stirrup Crag

When we finally got to the foot of Stirrup Crag, it really wasn’t obvious where on the left side we should go. This might have been the smallest Fell of the day at 627m but it needed respecting.

Unsure of where to climb, we started to look at other possibilities but all the other options looked too dangerous. It was about 6pm we were tired and I didn’t fancy the idea of finding my way off Yewbarrow in the dark.

We could have opted to go around the Fell, following ‘Over Beck’ and up the easier side of the fell, but no that wasn’t an option for us, we wanted to finish the day properly, although it was very tempting.

We went back to the left side again and Shaun spotted a possible route. This was exposed to the valley below and meant climbing out onto the exposed piece of rock before scrambling through a series of chimneys on various levels raising the heartbeat considerably.      

I stayed close behind Shaun as he lead. At this point we were unsure if this was the right route or if it would allow us to climb to the summit.

Thankfully It did, and it was a relief to emerge out of the rock, adrenaline was pumping and we felt great approaching the summit, but during the scramble I tweaked my kneecap, probably due to fatigue, and fear, leaving me with an uncomfortable limp.

Quick photo on the summit, and slipped a support strap on from my first aid kit.

The summit of Yewbarrow

Light fading on an incredible day

Then we headed for Bell Rib and a slow careful scramble down some steep gullies down to Dropping Crag. It was a painful descent and I really couldn't wait to get to level ground.

Shaun who was tired but fine after his early cramp had a spray for sports injuries which he applied assuring me it will ease. It did absolutely nothing.

The only relief came when we dropped onto the road. It was about 8.30pm we still had over a mile to walk and it was now dark. 

Before the long drive home, we needed some food, but by the time we arrived at the Wasdale Head Inn, they’d stopped serving hot food. We did manage to buy a sandwich in the busy bar and a soft drink.

I regretted not camping here, underestimating not just the drive, but how tough this day is. The drive out of Wasdale in darkness isn’t for the faint hearted. There is no lightning whatsoever and with only the car headlights I felt a little disoriented briefly.

I arrived home safely just after midnight, and after a few days rest the knee was fine.

What a fantastic day, tough but exhilarating. A day I will never forget.

Thanks for reading and feel free to comment