Coledale Horseshoe

Following in the footsteps of Alfred Wainwright really appealed to me, mainly because it would not only be a challenge to myself to visit all 214 mountain summits on his list, but it would also be a fantastic journey, and great way to see all of this wonderful national park, and put me into places I wouldn’t normally get to.

I already had two summits on Alfreds list already done, so my plan of action was to start with the horseshoe walks first. Climbing one initial mountain and walking the summits linked, usually in a u shape, will enable me to visit a few summits in one day, thus giving me a bit of a start.

Still improving my kit I purchased a drinks bladder to save me stopping to take my rucksack off every time I need a drink.

And I also bought a GPS for a bit of added security. I would be walking in all weathers in the future, in unfamiliar terrain and although I have map and compass and know how to use them, I felt it would be useful to confirm my position when I felt the need to by a reliable waterproof unit, plus track my route and have an altimeter to refer to for a reference.

Today would be a first for me. whenever I have gone to the Lakes, I’ve stayed in b&b’s, cottages hotels etc with my wife. But today I was going to drive to the Lake District, do a classic walk and drive home on the same day. About 2.5 hours drive each way, so a long day in store.

Having done a little homework on various walks, I chose the Coledale Horseshoe, this had nothing too technical to climb and would include Grisedale Pike, Hopegill Head, Crag Hill, Sail, Scar Crags, Causey Pike, Outerside, and finally Barrow. 8 summits in a u shaped valley of 10.4 miles. 

A tough first Horseshoe, but I don’t think any are easy.

The Coledale Beck runs down the valley joining up with the Newlands Beck before flowing into the nearby Bassenthwaite Lake

The disused mine of Force Crag sits at the head of the valley, and was used to mine lead and silver back in the 1800’s.

It’s now owned by the National Trust after the mine collapsed in 1990.

I was starting from the little village of Braithwaite, parking just off the Whinlatter  Pass with only room for about six cars. So I needed to be there early, and planned to be there for 9am. This meant leaving home at 6.30am allowing a loo stop on the way.

I was packed and ready the night before with just food and drink to take out of the fridge in the morning, so after a quick shower I left pretty much on time. 

The M6 was quiet which gave me a good run north, the sun was out, and it was looking like a good day ahead.

The views of Blencathra and the Coledale Round as I drove down the A66 was fabulous, especially Grisedale Pike knowing I was about to climb it. I was buzzing with excitement and couldn’t wait to get there.

I arrived in the village of Braithwaite on time but I was still the third car to park up in the small car park, as it turned out there was plenty of roadside parking as well so I needn’t of worried.

Not knowing what to expect of the day, how hard it would be, I had a brew and a banana to fill the energy levels up while I got to grips with my GPS resetting mileage distance before heading out. 

Straight from the car park, I’m greeted with steps up onto a winding steep path, snaking through greenery. 

This initial climb up was brutal, with no time to warm the leg muscles. In absolutely no time at all I was looking back down over Braithwaite village, hot and breathless already!!! This was a tough start to the day.

Looking across the meadows east from above Braithwaite, The Skiddaw range 

The steep slopes by Hospital Platation

A great view looking down on Braithwaite village

After the initial steep ascent, I was soon on Kinn 374m and my newly acquired fancy GPS confirmed it. This is where the climb plateaus out for a brief spell and gave me a chance to catch my breath and look out to the Skiddaw range to the east, and the Whinlatter Forest to the north before looking at Sleet How in front of me, towering above. I could also see most of the days walk ahead as I ploughed on up Sleet How in the June sunshine. It was a two mile slog to the summit and the last section was the steepest part on the well established path. Never had my boots been so dry but dusty in all my walking in the Peak District.

Kinn, it's path snakes from left to right up to the summit of Grisdale Pike.

Weighing up the afternoons mountains of Causey in the distance, Outerside and Barrow

The Grisedale grind

Another shot of the Skiddaw range and Blencathra beyond

The final steep slog to Grisedale Pike summit

Finally I had ascended Grisedale Pike and all of it's 791metres, my first summit of the day, and to be honest I was feeling it. It was only about 11am but I sat down and looked across at the other side of the Horseshoe. Causey Pike, Sail, and below them the little chocolate box of Outerside, and I wondered if I’d have the energy to do them all.

Having looked up many times from Keswick, I was now looking down from Grisedale Pike.

Sat on Grisedale Pike summit, looking at the green Outerside and Causey Pike beyond

Funny though, after a few minutes gazing at Keswick and the surrounding mountains in beautiful sunshine, I had recovered, and ready to carry on. Eyeing up Hopegill Head and the rock face of Hobcarton Crag in the distance, my next waypoint. 

I'm going that way. Eel Crag (left) Grasmoor (Centre) Hopegill Head (Right)

My next waypoint, Hopegill Head

It was a nice easy walk from Grisedale Pike down the well trodden path, and great views northwards could be seen along it with Whinlatter and the surrounding forest not far away. Looking over to the other side of the Horseshoe to the southeast I was able to weigh up my afternoon walking on Sail, Scar Crags and Causey Pike.

Hopegill Head was soon reached, and a great view down the ridge to Whiteside could be seen, one for another day I think.

The weather had turned a bit, cloud was forming with rain forecast later in the day.

View of the ridge from Hopegill Head to Whiteside, and just picking out Crummock water.

I was now heading over Sand Hill, down to Coledale Hause where I stopped by Liza Beck for a bite to eat. 

Here by the stream, I removed my boots and socks for a dip in the cold flowing waters. 
I always find it refreshing dipping my feet during a walk, even changing socks helps to freshen them up.

The GPS seemed to be working well and really pleased with its performance so far, showing I'd covered just over three miles, and the altimeter looked pretty accurate.

Hillsides running into Coledale Beck

Selfie on Sand Hill

Looking back down the Horseshoe from Coledale Hause 

My second stop, just after mid-day and a dip here in Liza Beck. Grisedale Pike is the far peak in the background

Energised after a drink and snack, my freshly washed feet were rejuvenated, so I left the Coledale Hause behind as I made the gentle climb up to a well defined crossroads.

If I carried straight on, I’d be heading down into Buttermere. Some walkers will turn right here, and include Grasmoor in the Horseshoe walk, before returning back to this point to carry on. 

Not me, Grasmoor will be one for another day. I felt what I was already doing today was enough. So I’m turning left up the steep grassy hill to Crag Hill 839m the highest point of the day.

I felt quite pleased with myself here at Crag Hill, I felt good, and from here I was heading back towards Braithwaite, I was over halfway around having passed 5 miles with three Wainwright summits in the bag I still had five to go, but I’d covered the toughest part of the day and felt confident, plus although cool, the sun was back out again.

Trig point on Crag Hill

I met a guy on the summit here, we had a chat and he snapped a photo of me at the summit. He then began telling me of all the walks he’d been on recently in Yorkshire. I was interested, but at the same time a little aware of the time ticking on, so I made my excuses and headed towards Sail.

The path from Crag Hill to Sail is narrow, but nothing to worry about. Views out to the south to the nearby ridge of Knott Rigg and Ard Crags are superb. The stunning Newlands Valley and Buttermere beyond, over looked by Red Pike, High Stile and High Pike.

Simply Sail

The passage down from Sail can not pass without mentioning the snaking path down  to Scar Crags, I have got to say it looked a totally unnatural mark on the landscape, raised off the hillside, I only hope in time the view from Scar Crags to Sail isn’t a permanent scar and the path blends in.

Not the best shot of the Sail path, but a scar none the less

A shot of the Buttermere fells of High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike. Buttermere Moss to the left of photo, and Sail Beck in the valley below, which runs into Crummock Water.

The Newlands fells and Knott Rigg in the foreground

Ard Crags

Rigg Screes

Rigg Beck, running between Rigg Screes and Scar Crags

The walk to Causey Pike was steady and really enjoyable, appreciating the surrounding views after negotiating the humps leading to the summit cairn at 673m. 

From here excellent scenery of Keswick, Derwent Water and it’s sailing boats, the Newlands Valley, the Skiddaw range, Blencathra the Helvellyn range, oh I could go on.......and I do but It was just stunning.

Causey Pike summit

I could now see the old lead mine at the head of Coledale Beck, and Force Crag.

It had been a long day already, Outerside and Barrow were options I could opt out of if I’d run out of steam. Looking down from Causey Pike, Outerside looked tiny.

No problem I thought, easy....A path not on the map took me directly down to meet the path from Sail. As I descended off the ridge, looking over, Outerside just got bigger and bigger. By the time I was at the foot of the fell, I really had to dig deep into my reserves to keep going, I was determined to summit all eight fells. Once at the summit of Outerside at 568m it was a relief to see the going ahead was easy, and it was apart from a bit of bog near Barrow 455m.

Outerside summit

view of Grisedale Pike from Outerside

Looking back at Outerside 

Beautiful views as I walk to Barrow summit

Barrow summit ahead

Looking back at the days walking

Barrow summit

It’s a steepish descent down to Little Braithwaite and the farm from Barrow, tough on my knees, so I was glad to be back down on the flat of the farm track after passing through the farm and into the village, where I went slightly wrong navigating my way back to the car. 

I passed the Royal Oak pub, and as you’d expect on a lovely Summers afternoon a few drinkers were stood outside having a good old chin wag and laughs.

I was driving of course, a long one at that, so I resisted the temptation to join them.

This is one of the down sides to a solo walk. Not being able to share the days experience over a well earned pint.

I arrived back at the car about 5pm, tired, aching but satisfied. I’d throughly enjoyed the ten mile walk. The weather had been perfect, and I don’t think I could have chosen a better first Horseshoe route. I was planning the next trip before I arrived home safe and sound.

10 Wainwright’s done, just 204 to do, but I’m up for it.

Alport Castles

Still in the grips of winter, there had been another heavy snowfall a few days earlier and I was itching to get out and walk amongst it 

I’d recently purchased some Grivel Spider spikes for about £27 and I was hoping I’d get the opportunity to try them out, they’re not the full crampon, but I was hoping this would be a cheaper alternative.

I was looking for an easy route to walk on without any risks as conditions could be tricky to walk in. It was a bitterly cold weekend and the roads weren’t great so I opted for the Peak District again. 

But this time I was heading to a place I hadn’t been before, Alport Castles.

It was an 11.3 miles walking above Alport Dale.

Driving along the A57 Snake Pass is a stunning drive, the sun was out, the sky was blue and the hills were white with snow. As I approached Ladybower Reservoir, looking at the valley full of pine trees reminded me of somewhere like Canada. I had my music high and I felt brilliant, I couldn’t wait to get out there.

I parked along the Ladybower Reservoir at the Bridge End car park. From here I was straight into the woods of Hagg Side and a fairly well trodden path was in front of me. However the hard snow got a little deeper as I gained height and made the ascent just that bit harder.

Once out of the woods at ‘Open Hagg' excellent views of Kinder Scout and beyond could be seen. Although I couldn't see the Snake Pass road though Haggtor Coppice, I could certainly hear the traffic on it.

I made my way towards Woodcock Coppice and a gentle ascent up to Rowlee Pasture.

The wind was bitterly cold, and had whipped up leaving some fields bare while forming deep snowdrifts elsewhere as it became more exposed from here.The walking was varied, from clear paths to deep snow fields.

I decided to try my new Grivel Spider spikes. Probably not the ideal conditions but I thought it will give me an idea of how they perform. I found them difficult to put on under my boot, and not obvious which way round they go. Once on I found them very uncomfortable, sitting in the mid boot, in front of the heel. I also found they moved about no matter how tight I pulled the straps. They were also balling up with snow, so I removed them after a short time as they weren't needed and more of a problem on than off. I was unimpressed.

Whitefield Pits and the route ahead

Looking back at Whitefield Pits

A bit of wind protection needed

I was soon passed Whitefield Pits and looking at the magnificent gritstone cliffs overlooking Alport Castles. These rock formations were caused by huge landslides, leaving these gritstone castle like formations standing alone, the largest of these was named ‘The Tower’ 

The Tower

Gritstone Cliffs, home to Peregrine falcons

The bird hide

The cliffs here at Alport Castles are home to Ravens and Peregrine falcons and a bird hide has residents overlooking the site. Continuing on beyond the high cliffs across moorland I pass a dead sheep, clearly a victim of the recent harsh weather.

The poor sheep shows an unforgiving nature

An exposed landscape 

My target was the trig point on Westend Moor which is just over 500m the highest point of the day. The trig pillar was about the only shelter in this exposed part of the Peak District and was a good spot to have a break as I was just under halfway through the days walk.

Trig point on Westend Moor

I now backtracked a short distance back to Alport Castles through some deep drifts. I then picked up the path heading northeast descending into Fagney Plantation.

Descending down into Fagney Plantation

Its a beautiful little wood, and the snow glistening in the sunshine just made it that bit more rewarding. The woodland path took me to the reservoir perimeter road, from here it was a 4 mile walk along Howden, Upper Derwent and Ladybower Reservoirs back to the car.

It was a great walk in the snow, the weather, although cold was beautiful. I only saw a hand full of people all day. Alport Castles is a stunning little gem, tucked away from the many, to be enjoyed by the few.

Kinder Scout

Keeping the winter walking going into February I was back out, this time up Kinder Scout.

The route I am taking is from Hayfield, passing Kinder Reservoir, then William Clough up to the Kinder Plateau. I’ll be making my way along the western side of Kinder, passing Kinder Downfall on the way to Kinder Low, skirting Brown Knoll, and around Mount Famine before making my way back to Hayfield.

It was a cool dry February day, It was bright with high clouds. There had been some snowfall the previous week but most of it had melted away, apart from pockets on the plateau.

I parked on Kinder Road, just before Bowden Bridge car park in Hayfield. Plenty of free parking here, and once changed into boots and geared up, I headed out just like the 400 or so protesters did in 1932 as part of a mass trespass to change legislation so the general public had the right to roam mapped access land.

Looking back down the steep cobbled path by Kinder Reservoir

The early stage of William Clough

William Clough is a little adventure in it's self, criss crossing the stream for time to time as the path changes from one side to the other. At some stages a path appears on both sides.

It often strikes me how quiet and peaceful this clough is, with only the running waters of the stream breaking the silence.

Gaining height now, and a sighting of snow above

Looking back down William Clough

Arriving at the crossroads of Wiliam Clough and the Pennine Way

Looking south east along my planned route

It's a bit of a steep climb to ascend this last section of the path onto Kinder Scout, and I had a bit of snow to negotiate.

The snow was pretty solid, so using the existing boot steps, climbing was made easier

Pockets of snow on the plateau path

Arriving at a partly frozen Kinder Downfall

Check out the walkers on the far side for scale

Looking down to Kinder Reservoir from Kinder Downfall

Looking back at the western side of Kinder, and the ground I've just covered

Kinder Low trig point 633m

One of the more deeper snow drifts

Having left Edale Cross, I was now on a path to Mount Famine

Mount Famine

Nearing the end of the 10 mile walk