Walking Forum meet Friday, Bessyboot, Glaramara and Allen Crags

The spring walking forum weekend meet up in the Lake District had finally arrived. 10 members of the forum were planning to meet up at various points in the weekend.

The plan was 2 nights stay in the Borrowdale YHA for most of us, while one forum member camped and two guys would join us just for the Saturday walk, which would be a climb to Scafell Pike via ’The Band’ onto Great End and Broad Crag. Sunday was a “see how we feel on the day” walk.

To make the most out of the weekend, Tim (percy) and Colin (strider) were walking on the Friday, so I decided to join them having managed to get the day off work.

The three of us had arranged to meet at 9 am by the school in Stonethwaite for a route in the southern fells, climbing up to Bessyboot / Rosthwaite Fell, Glaramara, and Allen Crags, returning along the Langstrath Valley which was filmed as the opening and closing footage to ’Countryfile’ the valley would take us back to Stonethwaite.

As always with these weekends, there is a list of gear to sort and pack as long as your arm, so it was a relief to be on the road by 6:20 am Friday morning. Traffic was light, probably due to the approaching Easter holidays and I made good time, arriving at the closed school in Stonethwaite at 8:30am.

I was first to arrive on a glorious sunny April morning, cool with a breeze but very comfortable. I'd found some free parking on the roadside, and by the time I'd put my boots on, Tim’s car was pulling up behind mine, followed shortly by Colin. 

We had warm welcomes for each other, as it had been some time since we were last walking together. The guys soon kitted up, as it was about 9:10 am, so with packs strapped on, we headed off along the lane following Stonethwaite Beck passed the Langstrath Country Inn in Stonethwaite village to a point where we were able to leave the lane for a climb up through a ravine on a steep but stepped path taking us up along side ’Big Stanger Gill’ between ’Hanging Haystack’ and ’Bull Crag’. As the three of us made the steady climb, views out to the Newlands Horseshoe opened up through the trees with ’High Spy’ and ’Maiden Moor’ on show. It was warm out of the cool breeze and the climb earned a sweaty brow or two.

Colin and Tim starting the climb along side Big Stanger Gill

Looking East towards Ullscarf

We followed the gill to the head of its source, passing a marshy patch near to the summit of ’Bessyboot’ following a good path. It was clear to see this area could be fairly wet during the winter months, but was pleasantly dry today and we soon made the last section of climb to its 551m summit around 10:30 am. The wind here felt fairly cool but comfortable enough with just a microfleece on.

After several attempts to take a group photo from my remote switch, I was finally successful after remembering to turn off the flight mode on my mobi......oops, much to the relief of Tim and Colin who were patiently posing for the shot.

A chance here for a break and a drink while admiring the surrounding fells on this gloriously sunny day before the seat mats were packed away and packs were back on. Tim led the way once Colin and myself were ready to go, passing ’Tarn at Leaves’ for the higher ground on Rosthwaite Fell.

From left to right, myself, Tim and Colin on the summit cairn of Bessyboot

I must say, it was nice to take a back seat with regards to leading today and follow Tim, who along with Colin had been in this area before, unlike myself.

I remember looking across these peaks from Allen Crags last year on a walk up to Great End, and thinking it looked fairly level and straight forward, but in fact, the whole of this route to Allen Crags from Bessyboot has some big undulations and quite deceiving on the map. But also the path disappeared periodically which all helped to add time to the walk. Some excellent views down into the Langstrath Valley and the gnarly rocks of Eagle and Sergeant’s Crags on the far side could be seen.

Looking back at Bessyboot summit

View of Tarn at Leaves and Bessyboot to the Left.

Eagle Crag and Ullscarf beyond

The Skiddaw Range to the north

View down into Langstrath and Pike of Stickle on the skyline

Looking down the Borrowdale Valley to Derwent Water

The Langdales in the distance 

We passed Dovenest Crag and crossed Combe Door to the south, on and off trails before Glaramara came into sight. Approaching our second Wainwright of the day, there didn't seem to be a path leading to the summit, so the three of us decided to take our own preferred track up to the rocky cairn. I opted for a short scramble while Tim and Colin took a more direct route. 

Colin crossing Combe Door

Approaching Glaramara summit

The summit cairn of Glaramara 783 m / 2,569 ft

It was a welcome stop here in the stone shelter by the summit cairn, just out of the now strengthening wind. Now at 783m we were pretty much as high as we were going and we could certainly feel the wind now as I donned my jacket, hat and gloves. 

The walk to Allen Crags was damp at times and Tim did his best to avoid the wettest areas as he’d opted for a walking shoe today. Which he found very comfortable and light, but not ideal for wet areas.

Looking at Esk Pike to the left and Great End centre of photo

We would be climbing the far right side of Great End tomorrow

At 785m Allen Crags was the highest point of the day, a Wainwright fell I'd visited last year, it was windy then too. We found some shelter on the western side of the fell facing the partially snow filled gullies of ’Great End’, and sat looking at tomorrows walk, trying to work out exactly where ’The Band’ route was. 

The stops we took were just long enough. The cold wind soon reduced body temperature and finger ends in particular, so we weren't hanging around too long. Time was ticking by, we had covered just under 6 miles and it was 1:30 pm.

We wanted to be back at the hostel to book the group in before they arrived.

So after finishing my ham and egg sandwich we headed down to Angle Tarn taking in the views of Esk Pike, Bowfell and the Langdales before descending into the shelter of Langstrath Valley following the beck.

Our last stop for food

Way down the valley I could see Eagle Crag in the far distance and I knew we had at least an hours walk still to do. In fact, we had just over two hours to get back to the car. We crisscrossed the beck a number of times before brushing with the Cumbria way lower down.

We had hoped to visit the ’Secret Cave’ but were unsure of its exact location, plus we were too knacked to be bothered climbing the fellside at this point in the walk.

Heading down to Angle Tarn from Allen Crags

On the outskirts of Stonethwaite, Tim pointed out some excellent wild swimming pools for future reference, but not today, far too cold for that.

By now we were ready for a pint and although tempting as it was to call in at the ’Langstrath Country Inn’, we needed to push on back to the cars, so we could get checked in at the hostel. I recorded a mileage of 13.5 miles with a total ascent of 1,024 m 

Black Moss Pot

After a quick change of footwear back at the car at 4:30pm we all drove the short distance to the Borrowdale hostel and checked in to find we were the first to arrive. The three of us were in a room for six, so obviously we all grabbed the lower bunks before returning to the bar for a well-earned pint. A short time later Dave (Rhino) and his partner Lyndsey arrived and joined us.

After storing some milk, teabags and cereal plus food for tomorrow in the self-catering kitchen it was time for a rather tipsy shower and change of clothes.

I also plugged in a multi socket point into our one socket so we could all charge our phones over the weekend.

We all rejoined the group in the main lounge where Reg (gunwharfman) had arrived, he was camping just up the road and was joining us at the pub for our evening meal. Dave, Lyndsey and Dom (Domtheone) who'd also just arrived were cooking at the hostel.

So Colin, Tim, Reg and myself walked the ten minutes across fields to the Riverside Bar at the Scafell Hotel in Rosthwaite and enjoyed an excellent meal and another pint. Fortunately we had head torches for the return walk back to the hostel as it was now pitch black darkness. Ruth (yorksgal) had arrived at the hostel while we were gone and the group had settled in nicely around the huge table in the hostel bar area. Hugs from Ruth followed and much catching up was done by all. We had a few good laughs a couple more drinks and arranged to meet ready to go at 9am before unsurprisingly Colin Tim and myself headed for bed on what had been a long day. Erm.....I think the others followed shortly after?

Reg and me

To be continued................

A Glenridding Circuit

The forecast for the upcoming weekend was for mild temperatures, dry with long sunny periods, but it was flippin February!!! What the hell is going on with the weather? I should be looking to pack ice axe and crampons, not to mention snow capped mountains. The only downside to the forecast was some pretty strong winds were due to blow in. We were talking possibly 60 mph on the tops, so not an easy days walking.

I decided to take on one of the more longer walks in the Lake District I've had my eye on doing. 14.5 fabulous miles and about 4,500ft of heavy breathing ascent.

It would include possibly 6 to 8 summits, I would be starting from the village of Glenridding, then heading up to Glenridding Dodd, Sheffield Pike, Hart Side, Stybarrow Dodd, 

Watson’s Dodd, Great Dodd, then returning along the ridge if my legs hold up, finishing on Raise and finally White Side. Returning on the path above Keppel Cove and along Glenridding Common, passing the Helvellyn YHA back into Glenridding.

This was the actual route recorded from my GPS

As the days are getting longer again, it was nice to make the two-hour drive up to the Lake District in complete daylight. I arrived in the large bustling Glenridding car park about 9 am.

Even at this time, there were still plenty of spaces to park, and when I saw the parking fee, I could see why...... £8 for the day!!!

After I picked my jaw off the floor, I paid the fee. I knew a couple of spots around the village, just off the roads, but to be honest, the car was safe here. No tractor trailer taking half a door off while I'm gone. Or maybe needing a push to get the car off a grass verge after a day on the fells. No inconvenience is what matters after a long day of walking. The last thing you need is car trouble, trust me, I've been there, in Martindale.

And it's a good thing I keep a bit of small change in the car too, they even charged for the toilets 30p for a pee! But I guess that's the price for clean public loos.

While gearing up, I did notice the car park was buzzing with quite a number of young guys, in small groups, I got the impression while earwigging, they had arranged trips here some weeks ago, probably intending to climb Striding Edge, and Helvellyn, in full winter conditions. But it was far from that today. The low sun was beaming through the haze and broken cloud of the early morning, giving an unseasonal warmth to the day. 

I also felt fairly sheltered from those 60 mph winds forecast by the surrounding mountains Glenridding is nestled in. So it certainly didn't feel like February.

With a heavy pack on my back, I left the groups behind in the car park, and made my way along the residential Greenside road, passing the Travellers Rest pub. 

I was heading for Glenridding Dodd first, a 442 metre high fell, overlooking Ulswater and the village. My climb in earnest would start from Ulswater Cottage, about half a mile from the car park.

 Looking back at Glenridding from Greenside Rd

The warm up, on Greenside Rd

The path to the side of the cottage takes you to the left side of Blaes Crag. Above the crag, the path is a bit steep with loose rocks, this felt a pretty stiff climb, having only been walking for a few minutes and I was soon stripping off my jacket as I was getting too warm.

Climbing 'The Rake' 

However, after climbing up through ’The Rake’ the path does level out a bit and improve as I made my way up, increasing my pace from a slow lung busting slog, to something more akin to a pleasant walk as my leg muscles were now warmed sufficiently.

Heron Pike in view, as I climb to the col

Looking up the Glenridding Beck valley. Birkhouse Moor seen on the left. Stang in centre. This will be my return route in a few hours time.

From the light breeze felt by the lake, I was hoping the forecasters had got it wrong, but as I gained height the strong wind was now evident. Eventually I arrived at the hause and the wall I would head right from. The wind was certainly felt here as it funnelled between the two peaks. A right turn from the wall allows an easy couple of minutes through heather to the first summit of the day, Glenridding Dodd, some 45 minutes after leaving the car.

The path on the right leads to Glenridding Dodd

Glenridding Dodd summit

I had a little wander down beyond the summit in the gusting wind to a number of smaller outcrops for a better view of the village of Glenridding below, Ulswater and the splendid surrounding mountains, but the sun was just too low for any good photos in the southerly direction, but the views were indeed excellent.

Looking northeast from Glenridding Dodd at Gowbarrow Fell left of Ullswater, and Birk Fell on the right.  

Looking into the haze south to Patterdale. Place Fell (left) Anison Crag (right)

I was now joined by a young couple as I returned to the summit. We had a pleasant chat for a couple of minutes, mainly about how amazing the weather was for February, apart from the wind. The couple were from Preston, and following AW’s list of fells. They had climbed 30 something fells, and were heading to Sheffield Pike like myself for their second of the day, but unsure what to do from there they told me, as we all looked over in Heron Pike’s direction. This would be our next waypoint which is a Birkett on our way up onto Sheffield Pike.

The view of Sheffield Pike and Heron Pike from Glenridding Dodd

We wished each other a good day, and I left them at the summit of Glenridding Dodd and headed back to the wall at the col between the two fells. From here it's an interesting climb on the south-east ridge path that meanders through heather and around crags on the edge of the fell. The wind was now certainly picking up strength, and There was a couple of sections on the way to Heron Pike where I had to wait for the wind to calm a little, to negotiate a section comfortably without the risk of being buffeted off the fell. Had I not held onto my cap at this point, I'm sure I would have lost it to the now gusting wind.

As I passed Heron Pike, I looked back to check on the couples progress, expecting them not to be too far behind me, but no sign of them was seen.

Looking back at Glenridding Dodd on the climb up to Heron Pike. Place Fell can be seen beyond Ullswater

Looking back at Heron Pike

The path up the south-east ridge of Sheffield Pike. Here, the gusting wind made a couple of sections a little nervy to negotiate, but the views were worth it. The fells in view are Birkhouse Moor and Catstycam. 

There are some boggy sections higher up on Sheffield Pike and I was hoping my lighter 3 season Mammut boots would keep my feet dry. I have a pair of Altberg Mallerstang boots which are like tanks on your feet, they will go anywhere and my feet would stay dry all day, but they are heavy boots, and I've also experienced some toe pain recently in them. So as the milder weather blew in, plus pushing over 14 miles, I went with the lighter, comfier Mammut pair.

An hour after leaving Glenridding Dodd, I had made it to my second summit of the day after some bog hoping, Sheffield Pike 676 m / 2,218 ft. A cairn marks the summit here. I also noticed a stone, with the letter M on one side and H on the other. Apparently this is the boundary between landowners of the Howard estate of Greystoke and the Marshall estate of Patterdale going back a few hundred years. Great views of Ulswater can be seen from here.

Sheffield Pike summit, and the stone boundary marker showing 'H' on one side

Viewing Ullswater from Sheffield Pike. from here the letter 'M' is seen on the boundary stone

The view down to 'Nick Head' and the climb up to Hart Side on the right, crossing the tops of the crags of 'Glencoyne Head'

After taking a couple of photos, swapping my cap for a woolly hat that wouldn't blow off, and digging out my gloves as I was reminded this was a February wind.

I continued down the western flank of Sheffield Pike towards ’Nick Head’ 75 metres below. On the way down I passed another boundary marker, this was a metal post with M/H plus the date of 1912.

I looked back up to Sheffield Pike’s summit to see the couple I met earlier on the fells skyline, they then backtracked and disappeared from view.

Continuing on, I passed ’Nick Head’ This marks the crossing of a path that links the valley of Glencoyne with Glenridding Beck. From here I would pass the disused quarry on my left, and made the grassy ascent of 160 metres to ’Hart Side’ skirting the crags of Glencoyne Head.

Catstye Cam's northern side in shade. Beyond, pockets of snow sit on Helvellyn and Lower Man

Climbing up to Hart Side from Nick Head. the disused quarry can be seen on the left.

I'd been dreading this section because I'd read of the wetlands this grassy plateau produces during the winter months. So much so, that I had packed a spare pair of socks in my pack, just in case my boots couldn't cope with the water. But missing out Hart Side was not an option, this isolated fell was being visited now or never.

As it turned out, not only were my boots fine, but this turned into a rather pleasant section that had fairly dry grassy sheep trails. So a nice pleasant stroll, enjoying views of the valley of Glencoyne while making my way up the gentle slope to a very easy third summit of the day. 

Easy walking on the way to Hart Side.

Glencoyne sweeping into Ullswater, looking east

Looking back to Sheffield Pike

The final approach to Hart Side in the distance

Hart Side summit stands at 756 m/ 2,480ft and is made up of one large cairn, surrounded by a small field of rocks. The wind here was pretty blustery and as it was almost midday, breakfast was six hours earlier, so I thought it would be a good time to make my one and only stop of the day and sit down to have a bite to eat and drink before heading up onto the Helvellyn ridge, where the wind would be at full force and limit shelter for a stop. 

Hart Side summit and the eastern spur leading to Stybarrow Dodd on the right.

I spotted a small wall of stone just beyond the cairn, which gave a reasonable shelter from the wind. I was able to sit quite comfortably admiring the views out to Matterdale. Below me was the flowing waters of Aira Beck, running through Deepdale where it would arrive at the impressive waterfall of Aira Force lower down a short time later.

Looking north, I was surprised to spot cars in the far distance, speeding along the A66 below ’Blencathra’.

Ham and eggs with a view

But the view across to Great Dodd was a reminder, I still had about 11 miles to cover over my planned route. So once I’d eaten my ham and egg sandwich, packet of crisps and a banana, my seat mat was packed away, food bag stowed with the waste inside the bag I might add, and my rucksack snugly fastened, I set my sights on Stybarrow Dodd, traversing the eastern spur of the fell from Hart Side, bypassing the ’Birkett’ listed ’Green Side’ and passing Deepdale Crag which was on my right.

The view over to Great Dodd from Hart Side

Heading for Stybarrow Dodd along the eastern spur.

Looking back to Hart Side (far left) and Green Side at middle distance.

It was a bit of a dull slog up to the Stybarrow Dodd Summit, walking the long grassy slope. So when I finally arrived at this forth summit, It wasn't at all clear where the highest point actually is if you're a purist in these matters, arriving from the eastern side of the fell, puts you at Stybarrow Dodd’s summit roughly speaking. Mr Wainwright stated the true summit is an iron post some 300 yards NE of an upright slate slab which is where I was. I didn't see the post, but it's all splitting hairs really, I was near enough to say I was on top of this fell.

One of the cairns on Stybarrow Dodd

I was hoping the haze of the morning would clear a little during the afternoon, but unfortunately, it didn't, so views of the distant mountains, especially the south and west from this magnificent spot were quite poor.

After visiting a couple of cairns on this rather flat 2,768ft peak, and happy enough to believe I’d traversed the highest part, I then joined the busy main ridge trail which links these mountains together, in a south-north direction but actually bypasses the Stybarrow Dodd summit by quite a bit.

The three-quarters of a mile to Watson’s Dodd was soon covered, made easier by the wind at my back. This summit juts out to the west of the neat line of the Helvellyn range, and I'm sure it has a more exciting climb from Legburthwaite, but from this route, it barely felt like a summit and was pretty dull, only marked by an out of place cairn amongst the grass. However, it was my 5th Wainwright of the day, and the hazy views more than made up for its dullness.

Watson's Dodd summit, with murky views of the Skiddaw range

Again, another three-quarters of a mile, along an easy grassy slope took me to Great Dodd, just 68 metres higher than Watson's Dodd. There are some mountain summits you feel you've really earned this view, by the effort required to reach it.

But to be honest, these last four summits came very easily.

Here at Great Dodd, a number of walkers were sheltering from the wind in the hollowed cairn. It would have been another good chance to take a break from the wind, but there wasn't room.

The true summit is about 90 metres northwest of the cairn. But while stood admiring the view back over to Hart Side where I'd walked from, I got talking to a group of four, one of whom was recovering from a foot injury, and was just building up her fitness, walking from somewhere in ’St John’s in the Vale’. I wished her well, as they departed the fell top.

The route ahead along the Helvellyn ridge. Watson's Dodd (right) Stybarrow Dodd (left) beyond those, Raise and Helvellyn

Browndale Beck below and Hart Side 

I had one last look around before leaving the summit myself, I set my sights on the return route, along the Helvellyn ridge, bypassing Watson's Dodd summit and following a sheep track to the east. I still had about 7 miles to cover if I made White Side, it was 1:30 pm and I felt fit and well so I had every intention of completing the route. But I now had a headwind to cope with. I was soon passed Stybarrow Dodd and on my way down to 'Sticks Pass' By the time I arrived at the Pass, which is at the foot of the climb up ’Raise’, I was getting low on energy. I could have opted to take the easy Sticks Pass route back to Glenridding. But I couldn't leave these last two summits for another day.

Murky views to the Central Fells in the southwest

Approaching Sticks Pass, and 'Raise' ahead

Here the headwind was so strong, I was having trouble just keeping my weight forward while climbing the steep and rough rocky path up ’Raise’, just keeping my head down and pushing on. Drifting off the rocky trial through buffeting, only to correct my walking line once I'd looked up for a check on my progress. It was a steep and stiff climb up to the summit. I'd had it easy from Hart Side, but the fells were now making up for it. I did notice the ski lift on the eastern side of the fell, now that would have been handy right now.

The ski lift on Raise

The first view I looked for on reaching the summit was over to White Side and relief to see it was an easy walk. Thoughts of standing around admiring the views here were now long gone. Even though I was now at the highest point of the day, at 882 m / 2,896 ft with excellent views, It was enough to just stop to take a photo or two while trying to hold firm. 

I was now keen to summit White Side and head down to lower ground. I'd been on the ridge for about two and a half hours and I'd had enough now.

The highest point of the day 'Raise' and looking back on ground I'd covered from Great Dodd, Watson's Dodd and Stybarrow Dodd

Looking South at Helvellyn from Raise

The easy climb up White Side 863 metres

About 20 minutes later, I was on my 8th and final fell of the day, ’White Side’ I was joined there by a couple of walkers with their dog. The wind here was so strong, a conversation was virtually impossible. And my visit here was of the briefest.

A look over towards Lower Man and Helvellyn reveals a few pockets of snow from the previous week. All eight summits achieved. It was 2:50 pm and time to head back to Glenridding 4 miles away.

 looking back at Raise from the summit of White Side.

View of Helvellyn's, Swirral Edge (left) and Lower Man (right)

Swirral Edge and Catstye Cam

Descending White Side, I now peeled off right, on a well-constructed path above Red screes and Keppel cove, it was a relief to descend the winding path into some shelter from the wind.

Returning to Glenridding, Sheffield Pike (left) Place Fell (centre) Birkhouse Moor (Right)

The walk down from here is dominated by a very impressive ’Catstye Cam’ to the south. I've dropped off Helvellyn down Swirral Edge a couple of times, and from there it is nothing more than a bit of a hill on a splendid route, but anyone who has climbed this peak should view it from this path. It really does look a true mountain of impressive size.

Catstye Cam and Helvellyn looking down on Keppel Cove

As I continued to lose height, my gloves and woolly hat came off as the temperature warmed, helped by a calmer wind. Looking over to the southeast, I could see scores of people following Red Tarn Beck down from Helvellyn like tiny ants.

Helvellyn walkers, descending by Red Tarn Beck 

All heading home

A last look back at Catstye Cam

Now that is a well constructed bridge

Glenridding screes, and the village just around the corner

Glenridding comes into view

The weather had been challenging in the wind, but thankfully stayed dry, but that was about to change. Black clouds were rolling in from the west, which were behind me. At this stage of the day, I really didn't want to get wet, not after ’Holme Fell’ in January, so with fingers crossed and a healthy pace I managed to get down to the Helvellyn YHA, crossing Glenridding Beck by the Hydroelectric plant.

The crossing of Glenridding Beck

Helvellyn YHA, where I stayed for a very interesting night in October 2018

I now joined the procession (ants an hour ago) of walkers all coming off a day in the mountains, probably most with weary bodies and especially legs.

As I spot the village of Glenridding and look up with a smile at Glenridding Dodd and Sheffield Pike, spots of rain start to fall.

The last mile through the valley

A look back at the impending rain

And where the walk all started a few hours earlier

Passing The Travellers Rest, back in the village of Glenridding

I did manage to arrive at the car reasonably dry, but within minutes, the heavens opened for a proper downpour. After the soaking I got last month, it was a relief to be back in time.
It was now 4:30 pm, it had taken 7.5 hours over the 14.42 miles. Total ascent was 1,404 metres/ 4,606 ft, my moving average was 2.4 mph over the day.

All that was left for me to do now, was drive the two hours home safely, and start planning the next one. Thanks for reading the blog, until the next adventure.