Testing the toe on Kinder Scout

For the past 18 months or so, I've been suffering with hallux rigidus in my big toe, which is a joint problem causing inflammation and pain due to a form of arthritis. 

I'm now at a stage where I'm having an operation on the darn thing.

So without boring you too much, this would be my last hike out, until after the operation to avoid inflaming the joint before surgery. 

It was Valentine's day, and the forecast was a cold 2 degrees C, windy with snow showers later in the afternoon and temperatures dropping down to -4C on the Kinder plateau, so I wasn't expecting the sunshine and a reasonable amount of February warmth to greet me when I arrived at Bowden Bridge in Hayfield.

Avoiding the pay and display car park here and finding a free parking space along the Kinder road is never a problem, no matter how late in the morning you arrive, unlike many other parking areas of the Peak District and indeed the Lake District, you'll always find a spot along this lane, even at my 10.30am, arrival time.

I chose this route up William Clough, walking part of the Mass Trespass of 1932, where hundreds of ramblers trod in protest to highlight the restriction to roam open countryside. 

I would then traverse the western edge of the Kinder plateau, passing Kinder Downfall and leaving the tops at Red Brook returning back to Hayfield down the upper slopes of Broad Clough to Tunstead farm and the lane back to the car.

Here is the route I took, sorry for the break at the start, I forgot to start the recording, but it was 7.5 miles, walked in about 4 hours.

Once my boots were on and laced, I left the car with hard shell firmly stuffed into my pack along with hat, gloves, food, drink and a few other bits, however, I was mindful of the weight of the pack today, as I'm a bugger for carrying the kitchen sink, and a heavy load wouldn't help that toe of mine, so one or two items were left behind like the taps and plug.

There was hardly a breeze down at the foot of the mountain, as I joined the small procession of walkers all heading in the same direction along the shaded Kinder road, not quite like the Mass Trespass, but there were a few, until we passed a campsite to the right, where a number of walkers peeled off towards Coldwell Clough. 

The day had a real spring feel to it and I hadn't been walking in the hills for some time now, so it felt great to be out, with the freedom of those hills in front of me I struck up a fair pace to start with, overtaking a couple of fellers as we walked by Marepiece Wood and onto the steep cobbled path, which takes you up along side the one hundred and five year old dam, which serves the town of Stockport. 

At the top of the path, I found a family of four taking a breather after the steep climb up. it's always nice to see parents taking their kids out into the hills, just as my mine took me and my sister out most weekends as kids into the Peak District, and especially the Dark Peaks.

This is the view of Kinder Scout from the lower path by the reservoir, it would be a big chunk of my walk today. Kinder Downfall can be seen on the horizon, just left of centre. 

At this point you can take the lower path, close to the water as I have, or the higher White Brow path around Nab Brow joining William Clough a bit higher up, but I prefer to be by the water. again walkers split here with some opting to take a more direct path up to the summit via Sandy Heys, a route I've not taken yet.

William Clough is a really pleasent ascent of Kinder Scout, it's a nice steady climb following the Heather lined stream that serves the Reservoir below. 

The path up the clough isn't always clear to follow, as it meanders along the waters edge, crossing from one side to the other every now and then with stepping stones to help in most parts but very enjoyable, however it's still a climb and my pace would now slow down a bit as my fitness would tell.

I was on my own now in this lower section of the clough, not another walker in sight and the clough was almost silent apart from the sound of water pouring from the small sporadic waterfalls that dot the route and my boots crunching away on the gritstone path, 

The sun was still out, my toe felt okay, so it was all good as I headed for the top.

The upper section of the clough does get a little steeper but with stone steps in place it makes it a little easier, but it still got my heart pumping at ten to the dozen and producing more than a drop of sweat off my brow, even though you could feel the temperature dropping.

The silence of the lower path was now broken by the building breeze blowing over the saddle of Ashop Head, but as I was working hard, I didn't feel it at this point. 

The ground here was frozen and it was starting to feel more like that weather forecast I'd heard earlier. 

After passing a couple of guys sat having a break before the last push up onto the plateau. I could really feel the wind getting stronger, and before I reached the Pennine Way which crosses the saddle at the top of the Clough from Mill Hill I decided to don the shell jacket and hat before I got too cold. 

Looking back down William Clough and the Kinder Reservoir in the distance

Now standing on the Pennine Way, I'm looking south east at the steepest path of the day, which puts you on the summit plateau. The last time I was here, we had deep snow and had to kick snow holes for steps up this section, no problems today though.

A panoramic shot looking south west towards the White Peaks from the Pennine Way

The frozen Pennine Way, again looking back at the Manchester skyline.

This is a typical gritstone path on Kinder, if you don't trip once on these stones during a walk up here, I'd be amazed. I swear there are little people under some stones and as soon as you look up at the view while walking, the little buggers push the stones up and they've got ya.

Heading towards the craggy Kinder Downfall about a half hour walk away

It was about lunch time now, and a couple of hours into the walk. I needed to find some shelter out of this biting wind in order to have some relative comfort eating a sandwich and a drink while I sat down for a few minutes.

Oh yeah, the perfect wind shelter.

Time to refuel with a ham salad sandwich, boiled egg and jaffa cakes............well I hadn't eaten since early breakfast.

Lovely spot in the sun, but it was colder than it looks

On a day like today, it's about taking in the views, absorb the scene and bank it into the memory..........no rush

With the lunch stop over, it was time to push on to Kinder Downfall, and after the stop I was feeling a bit chilly in the bitterly cold wind, so on went the gloves and buff.

The weather was now closing in a bit with cloud building from the east, but it was still pleasantly fresh.

Kinder Downfall, can you spot the walkers on the far side?

The frozen River Kinder.

The river, when in full flow cascades over the rocky outcrop dropping some 30 metres below.

With a strong westerly wind blowing, the waterfall flows upwards filling the air with clouds of spray. Unfortunately today it's just a trickle from under the ice, but on a plus, I stayed dry.

I'd kept an open mind on the route I was walking today, and if I felt okay, I would carry on to Kinder Low putting another extra 3 miles onto the day, but my toe was starting to bother me a bit now, so I decided to stick to the original plan of descending the plateau from the next big crag, which was Red Brook.

This path would take me down by Cluther Rocks and The Three Knolls.

It can be a tricky path to follow in mist as it's not a well used path and does disappear suddenly, then reappear, but no problem on a clear day like today.

The skyline of Kinder Scout behind me, which I've just walked from............I was happier than I looked. honest

Weather on the way in

The forecast had said snow around 3pm. The time was 2.30pm. and I was impressed, they had got that right!!!

As I got to the end of the path by "The Three Knolls" I was joined by a couple some distance in front of me. dressed in light clothes, ie  t-shirt and jeans, clearly not geared for what we were about to get dumped on us.

The young couple stood for a moment at a split in the path at Kinderlow End, then headed right towards Broad Clough. If they were heading back to a car that was parked near mine on the lane, then they had just put a half hour extra onto their shelter from the weather. I would never know.

Approaching Tunstead Clough Farm

Behind me was another couple, again some distance away, but they had clearly come down off the Kinder Plateau with more appropriate attire for a winter day in the hills.

Within a minute or two the wind had picked up to near storm force as the snow hit. I was being blown down the hill in gusts. my hat was giving me no protection on the back of my head, so as I stumbled about trying to undo the press studs of my hood, I looked around at the couple behind me, to see them doing exactly the same as me. but with a bit more success. although I did manage it eventually.

The snow shower only lasted a few minutes, but I couldn't help thinking of the poor young couple who must have been freezing and wet after a blizzard like that, 

As the wind calmed down, the couple passed me soon after, and gave me a look of wow, that was intense !!!

In the space of a few hours, I'd gone from the sunshine and calm of William Clough to a near blizzard descending this unique mountain, and although a bit over 600 metres high it's not a big hill in height, but it is a big mountain in area and should command respect. If the plateau had climbed to a summit peak, it would give any Snowdonian or Lakeland mountain a run for it's money. and indeed the plateau itself is a true test of navigation in any weather.

Back at my car, my toe felt better than expected, but I was just about on the limit of what I can do for now without too much pain. A second day on the trot out in the hills would be a painful walk for sure.
Hopefully this walk will stop the cabin fever for now. as I can now say I feel revitalized by what only the countryside can do.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and hope it was enjoyable.