I woke up on day two of my Lake District trip to the music of “First Light” on my mobile alarm at 6.30am. Staring at the underneath of an empty top bunk bed in the Helvellyn YHA. It was still dark out, but time to get up for another day on the fells and time to get my stiff legs moving.
My plan after yesterday’s 16 mile walk, was an easier one from the Brothers Water car park into Hartsop, which is just a couple of miles away from the hostel. I’d be following Pasture Beck through a glen, up to Threshthwaite Mouth, from here a walk to Gray Crag, returning to Threshthwaite Mouth, before a scramble onto Caudale Moor from the east ridge and onto the summit of ‘Stony Cove Pike’. Finally finishing the day on Hartsop Dodd, about 10 miles later.
Today's planned route
I needed to be finished by mid afternoon so I would miss the rush hour traffic back in the world of reality on the M60 and be home for a reasonable time.
So I needed an early start, hence the 6.30am alarm.
Thankfully in the hostel bathroom, I had the two persons shower all to myself, and although it was lovely and hot, I really didn’t fancy any company, so it was a very quick shower. But while I was standing at the sink, brushing my teeth, now half dressed I might add, a lady, probably in her 60’s walked in and asked if she could use the shower? I think I might’ve put her off when I politely explained it was a double shower without a locking door and as this is a gents bathroom, a bloke could walk in on her..... she left quickly, although she looked strangely disappointed.
With a clean change of clothes, my overnight bag packed, and feeling refreshed, I stripped the bedding and left it on the floor of my room as instructed by staff, I checked out, dropping my key that didn’t lock the bedroom door at reception and with a “many thanks” walked out into daylight. This hostel really is in an amazing location, one I couldn’t see last night on arrival, situated right by Glenridding Beck, with mountain views all around, a very peaceful place with a feel of isolation to it.
I was keen to get an early start on this fresh chilly but clear beautiful October Monday morning.
And while most folk were heading out to work, I was trying my best to save my shock absorbers and my teeth while driving down that very bumpy lane from the hostel back into Glenridding.
As I drove through Glenridding, mist was rising from the waters of Ullswater, it was like something out of “Lord of the Rings” I should have stopped to take some photos of the small boats moored near the shore, but didn’t and regretted it instantly.
Apart from a camper van, the Brothers Water car park was empty as I pulled up to park. A voluntary donation box is on display here and I dropped £3 through the slot, before having some breakfast.
Having Crohn’s Disease doesn’t get in the way of hill walking much for me, I am very fortunate, however, precautions are needed, and the urge for the loo halfway up a mountain isn’t desirable. So the full English breakfast is left for another day at let’s just say a more convenient time. While I stick to a safe bet with Weetabix with milk and a banana from the cool box out of the boot of my car.
Just then, a couple parked up next to me and all three of us went through our pre walk preparations, you know like changing into boots, packing or restocking rucksacks with food, checking route etc.
I was carrying much less today, waterproof pants, camera and gloves were left behind, just 1 Ltr of water and a couple of jam sandwiches. I poured fresh bottled water into my empty drinking bladder, I think bottled water tastes better through the tube rather than tap water, I reset my GPS and I was ready for the off.
The couple walked passed me heading by Brothers Water stopping only to comment on such a lovely day and to wish me an enjoyable walk.
I left the car at 8.45am for the short walk into the village of Hartsop, stopping to take a photo of a scenic view that caught my eye. The village was quiet as I passed through, walking through a carpark, which I didn’t know about until I found myself passing through it, over the bridge of Pasture Beck, turning left, in a southeasterly direction.
Looking south from Brothers Water, the northwest ridge of Caudale Moor (left) High Hartsop Dodd (right) and Middle Dodd (centre)
Sometimes on the Wainwright journey we tend to head up onto the fells at the first opportunity, missing out on some low-lying areas and in particular the quiet valleys.
Today I wanted to explore the steep sided valley of Threshthwaite Glen following “Pasture Beck”
I was still feeling the effects of the previous days walk, and to be honest, kept an open mind on just how far I’d walk today.
Hartsop Dodd looked steep, but Gray Crag looked formidable, the sheer steep side of this fell soared high above me, as I entered the valley, the towering peak sat in sunshine, and made me feel tired just looking at it, and the thought of climbing it’s height as I started to get into the valley was off putting.
The Glen itself was fascinating, the floor was in shade and covered in a light frost. Apart from the sound of running water from the beck, it was silent.
But I was surprised to discover a well established stone path making the walking easy. Apparently Charolais/Limousin cows live in the valley during the summer months and can be aggressive, as much of their time during the winter is spent in cattle sheds away from the public, so thankfully no cows were in sight today as there’s only two directions to run in.
As I looked back down the Valley, the village of Hartsop was now out of sight and “Brock Crags” dominated this view, the whole surroundings gave a sense of real remoteness, as I moved further into the valley.
Threshthwaite Glen
A frosty start to the day
Beautiful red and orange fungi grows sporadically just off the path here, although it was a bright sunny day beyond the valley, in here the shade was deep and I could imagine on an overcast day, light would be sparing, making for dull and damp conditions. And damp it certainly was, with lots of water courses running off the fell sides as I moved along the valley, if it hadn’t been for the stone path, my feet would be soaked as my Mammut summer boots were now wetting out, so the streams needed a bit of careful negotiating in order to keep my feet dry.
Approaching Raven Crag
A good path makes the walking easy
Looking at “Threshthwaite Cove” which is at the head of the valley, as I got halfway along, I tried to spot my exit route up to the col at Threshthwaite Mouth which lies between Caudale Moor and Thornthwaite Crag. I couldn’t see a route up and it looked steep, “this could be interesting” I thought.
At the foot of Raven Crag, a boulder field lay over the path. The boulders were the size of cars and bigger. It looked to me as though at least some of the rocks had come away from the crag long after the path had been established as some of the rocks seem to sit on the path itself.
The rocks were easily negotiated as the path snaked through them and I continued walking towards the head of the valley.
The boulder field below 'Raven Crag'
As I got up close to the cove, the route up finally revealed itself to me, and again, pleasantly surprised to see that the stone path continued in the form of steps. But it was steep.
I set a target of counting 200 steps before stopping to look back at the view and catching my breath. Then continued for another 200 steps and so on until I made it onto level ground at Threshthwaite Mouth and into the warmth of sunshine, which was nice after being in cool shade for most of the morning.
The steep stepped climb out of 'Threshthwaite Cove'
Having made it to this point, I was definitely going on to visit all three peaks. I felt okay and it was only 11.00am.
From Threshthwaite Mouth, excellent views down to Troutbeck and Windermere could be seen and Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke all part of the western side of the Kentmere Horseshoe were on show. To the west, was a steep scramble up the east ridge of Caudale Moor, but that would be later.
Looking east and my continuing route, there was a rough steep path following a broken wall which should lead to Thornthwaite Crag, but unfortunately for me, following this route would have made an unnecessary steep and hard climb and gain unnecessary height to get to the ridge path that would take me to Gray Crag.
A great view of the western side of the Kentmere Horseshoe's 'Yoke' 'Ill Bell' and Froswick
Looking east and my continuing route, there was a rough steep path following a broken wall which should lead to Thornthwaite Crag, but unfortunately for me, following this route would have made an unnecessary steep and hard climb and gain unnecessary height to get to the ridge path that would take me to Gray Crag.
So instead I chose to cross the pathless moorland tops of Gray Crags, following a sheep trail which quickly disappeared into long grass as I crossed the fell on a gentle ascent.
Not easy walking on uneven ground with long grass and marsh, it’s the sort of terrain that pushes your ankles over every now and then, but eventually I joined the easy ridge path connecting Thornthwaite Crag with Gray Crag.
Looking back at the col of Threshthwaite Mouth and the scramble up the east ridge of Caudale Moor to the right. Windermere can be seen in the distance.
Difficult ground to cover
Pasture Beck below Gray Crag
I finally made it to my first Wainwright summit of the day after covering about 4.5 miles.
Gray Crag stands at 699m, and after taking in its panoramic views, I began retracing my route leaving the path to Thornthwaite Crag pretty much at the same spot I’d joined it earlier. Again crossing the rough undulating ground aiming for Threshthwaite Mouth.
Gray Crag summit and views east 'Rest Dodd' and 'The Knott' along with 'Rampgill Head'
This was about the first time I’d been in descent all day and suddenly I felt some discomfort in my right knee, so before it got any worse, and as a precaution, I stopped, and after removing both boots, opened up my first aid kit, sprayed each knee with a cold muscle spray, slipped on a knee support on each leg. Swallowed a couple of “Paracetamol” tablets and then slipped my boots back on again before continuing onwards. And that seemed to do the trick.
The East ridge of Caudale Moor
A good path leads to the cairn summit of ‘Stony Cove Pike’. From here excellent views in all directions were enjoyed in the early afternoon sunshine.
'Stony Cove Pike' summit, from here the 14 foot summit beacon of Thornthwaite Crag can be seen. Beyond to the left 'High Street'
Several paths lead away from the cairn, and although I was heading north in clear weather, it wasn’t completely clear I had chosen the right path until I passed over a broken wall. From here it was clear to see I’d be following a wall all the way to Hartsop Dodd.
View North following the wall and my final fell of the walk ahead 'Hartsop Dodd'
It was easy walking now, following the wall and the views out to the west were stunning. Much of yesterday’s walk were visible, St Sunday Crag, Dollywaggon Pike Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn, but the Northwestern ridge of Caudale dominated the foreground, and looked a fine route to incorporate in a future walk.
Looking West at much of yesterdays walking area 'St Sunday Crag' 'Fairfield', 'Dollywaggon Pike' 'Nethermost Pike' 'Helvellyn' and even 'Catstye Cam' were on show
I finally sat down for a short break after passing a token cairn on Hartsop Dodd. I have got to say it was one of the nicest spots I have ever sat in, and certainly was the most enjoyable jam sandwich I've ever eaten.
Looking out over green fields and the village of Hartsop in miniature, all bathed in sunshine. Peaceful, calming, and so memorable.
What a spot for a picnic
An excellent two days walking was coming to an end, I just had the very steep descent off the fell to negotiate. The path down is grooved, and zigzags, making it a little easier, but it is extremely steep. My knee started to feel uncomfortable during the descent and it was a relief to get down and on the flat of the village.
Looking back at Hartsop Dodd from the village
I just had the short road walk back to the car, arriving back at 2.45pm. The walk covered 11.35 miles and about 2,800ft of ascent and of course three more Wainwright summits taking me to 125.
A final look back at Gray Crag (left) and Hartsop Dodd
I didn’t manage to avoid the rush hour traffic around Manchester, but that’s a small price to pay for such a great day. And the knee was fine next day.
The stats
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